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I Could Live Here
Istanbul. A park stretching for miles along the waterfront, filled with families picnicking, friends chatting, groups strolling, and kites flying. An ancient wall, in partial ruin, partially restored, running along the street, arches allowing quick glimpses of the old city within as the taxi drives past. Narrow streets winding and twisting along the hillside, lined with old buildings and covered in bricks and stones. Cafes, restaurants, and boutiques around every corner, down each hidden alleyway. A sense of history, of permanence, yet a cosmopolitan mix of people, food, fashion, languages, thoughts, and ideas. I could live here.
Few cities in the world have struck me with the immediate "I could live here" impression: Boston, Barcelona, Hong Kong, and now Istanbul. These cities each seemed to welcome me with open arms. They each struck a chord that resonated that "I'm at home" feeling deep within my soul.
Walking among history leaves me in awe. To reflect upon the significance of a location, of its importance in history and the people who have walked along the same paths, on the same ground, is a thrilling experience that often leaves me speechless. I first remember feeling this in Boston, as I walked through Boston Common and then into the North End, finding the Old North Church and thinking of Paul Revere. How amazing it was to realize that so many of the people responsible for my country being a country had been in the exact same place, had walked along the same streets, even touched the same stones and doorways. Istanbul impressed me in a similar fashion. Though, admittedly, I am not as well-versed in the history of the city, I did some research on the significance of Istanbul and its strategic location to the many empires that ruled this bit of land. To think that sultans that once ruled vast empires took residence in Tokpaki Palace, walked the same corridors that I now walked is inspiring. To realize that actual people commissioned the construction of the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, requested the colorful, intricate mosaics that fill the walls of the mosques and the palace is actually a bit mind-blowing. So often, I see historical buildings or pieces of art and lose sight of the humanity behind it, of the actual people that lived in the locations, commissioned the artwork, sat for the portraits, created these masterpieces of architecture that still exist hundreds and even thousands of years later. Walking through the harem at Tokpaki Palace made me stop and reflect on the people who used the rooms, who sat on the low sofas, who walked the corridors, who mingled, did laundry, had children, and ruled empires. Amazing that me, this little, globally insignificant creature, can now walk among their legacy.
Cosmopolitan cities intrigue me. What is it that brings people from all corners of the world to one city? What do each of these people do there? How do they fit into the great puzzle that is the inner workings of the city? Barcelona is the first city I can remember that struck me with a sense of cosmopolitan-ism. It was the only word I could think to describe the city after visiting. There was such a mix of new and old, young and old, Spanish and foreigners, and a vibrant pulsation of life. Istanbul struck me with a similar vibe for life, a mix of people that all add to the energy and pulse of the city. While I did mainly follow the tourist path, I stayed in an apartment on the other side of the hill where I was able to observe real Istanbul life, real people going about their daily tasks. The pace of life was agreeable - greeting neighbors, spending time outdoors, gathering around fountains, in plazas, and along the waterfront. A mix of women from all paths of life, from different personal beliefs, with headscarves and without, fully covered and not, all mixing together. Personal values, opinions, and modes of expression seemed to be respected and welcomed, rather than judged. This, for me, is part of the definition of cosmopolitan.
Hong Kong struck me as a cross-roads of the world. With its history filled with Chinese and British influence, its modern-day significance as a commercial port, Hong Kong felt like the true definition of a melting pot. It was easy to slip right into that pot and get stirred around with the mixture that was already there. So comfortable, so easy. Istanbul also gives an obvious feeling of being a cross-roads of the world, this time somewhat literally, as it straddles two continents. Historically, Istanbul attracted people from around the world, and it continues to do so today. Completely modernized, yet rooted in history, Istanbul seems to welcome the influence of other cultures, yet retain its own sense of self. Looking around, you can find people from all walks of life, from all corners of the world. All seem to be welcomed, all respected. Yet, there is an obvious sense of nationalism, evident in the Turkish flags proudly displayed around the city. I feel that if one supports and believes in the secular Turkish nation, one's personal values and beliefs will be respected in return. It would be interesting to have the opportunity to research this further.
The history and composition of Istanbul's population are definitely attractive. I could live there.
- comments
Christine Smith Jen, excellent shots and excellent writing. I am not nearly as well traveled as you, but I did indeed love Istanbul and the Tokpaki Palace. The whole Sultan and harem lifestyle fascinated me and your description of the colors, textures and people brought back some good memories. If you move there, I promise to come visit.
Uncle Bill Keep them coming - fun traveling with you by proxy.
justin this is wered