SNORKELLING FOR SHARKS IN SHARK BAY

DAY 70: Kao Tao

We decided to have a change of scenery today and give one of the other beaches a chance at wowing us, so after breakfast we had a taxi pick us up and take us to Shark Bay on the other side of the island. We did consider walking as it didn't look too far on the map, about 4km, but the trouble with maps is that they're not 3D. And after our cab ride there we were glad we didn't walk. It was up and down some pretty vertical and bumpy dirt tracks. And with us sat in the back of the 4x4, it was more like an off road adventure tour, bouncing along and trying to stay in.

When we got there we were awestruck with the idyllic beach - hardly anyone on it and crystal clear, calm waters. Unlike a lot of places, Shark Bay is named so because you're almost guaranteed to actually see some black tipped reef sharks when snorkelling. Almost guaranteed that is.

I went out further and further each time but didn't come across any. Although harmless, I'm sure it would have still freaked me out a little if I'd seen one. I could tell this anxiety was present as I span around at one point and saw something flash in front of my eyes and bricked myself. It was the excess snorkel mask strap floating in front of me. Again!

Perhaps I was too late in the day, searching in the wrong place or just making too much noise, but I was disappointed not to see any sharks. That aside, the snorkelling on the huge reef was the best of the trip.

Time for a drink as we were really melting by now. Even in the water. As I stood waiting to be served at the rustic beach bar in about 32 degrees Celsius, I could hear Frosty the Snowman being played. Something just not quite right about that. Christmas should be in the cold, a bit what it's like at home at the moment, apparently. Enough people beefing about it on Facebook. All year long, 'will we, won't we get a white Christmas this year?' Then when we do, uproar.

Later that evening we enjoyed our last, and free, dinner by the waterfront. And it was spectacular. We both had a dish of king prawns, each one the size of a small lobster, and just as tasty, whilst reminiscing about everything we've done on this trip as the next two days are interrupted by travelling, making our way, slowly but surely home to London.