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We touched down in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) and the craziness hit us. The intensity of the weather, the people and the traffic. But as one lady we we've met put it, 'it's crazy, but it seems to work!' Just crossing the street is a life/death challenge-if your not willing to take a risk, you would be standing on the pavement for days, waiting for a break in the traffic. By traffic we mean motorbikes-millions of motorbikes & scooters weaving in just about every direction possible. Throw into the mixer a multitude of bicycles, a few taxis and the odd bus and you have hours of noise and entertainment. Basically, the loudest horn wins and the others move (or rather are pushed) out the way. The only way to be a pedestrian in all this chaos is to brave it and start walking-infront of bikes(all kinds) is ok as they usually drift to one side of you, cars/buses-not recommended! Hesitation in Vietnam is risky behaviour.
Once we got to grips with crossing the street in Saigon all was good. We stayed in the most welcoming of guesthouses in the heart of backpacker downtown. Our first night we got some local grub and sat watching as the heavens opened. The rain didn't last long-maybe 40 minutes, but it was torrential- the cityscape was transformed and the street was replaced with a river of sitting water, kids came out to play in the water, and a few brave bikes, tarpaulined up, attempted to drive through. All fascinating to watch.
We later, after the river had subsided, went into a nearby cafe for a drink and got chatting to some vietnamese local lads. They gave us a few must sees/dos from a local perspective. By chance, we met one of them again the next day in another cafe, just down the road (cafes are a good restbite from the heat). The cafe was established to help local families get regular work, learn a skill and learn English. All the employees were from poorer areas in the city and were working for a better life. It was quite humbling. The lad who we had previously met was voluntering to teach the workers English. He soon got us roped in and we spent most of the afternoon talking to a couple of ladies, trying to teach them some basic English cafe conversations. We were both amazed at how enthusiastic and quick both ladies were at picking up their new words.
A third notable experience from Saigon was our visit to the War Remnants Museum. It documented the 'American War' (as the Vietnamese call it) and its lasting effects. It obviously presented only one side of the 'argument', but was deeply impacting, all the same. Some of the most valuable parts (we felt), were the stories of the photo-journalists who documented the war (from all fronts). There were some stunning images that reflected both the best and worst of humanity. We left feeling deeply contemplative. Shocked but better all round for the experience.
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