There are two things that come to mind when most people think of Cambodia; the Khmer Rouge genocide, and the Angkor Wat temples (ok, celeb fans will probably mention Brangelina's adopted son, Maddox, too!). We've seen the 'horrors', now for the temples! In a word, they were stunning. We went to a selection of the best-known ones, with our guide, who's English wasn't fantastic (on showing us a carving of a mythical battle, we asked, 'so, who won the battle?', 'Ye...

Another early start for the short flight from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, courtesy of Cambodia Angkor Air (half-owned by Vietnam Airways). It was a pleasant flight (on a ATR-72, 'plane fans), and surprisingly free of children going up and down the aisle trying to sell you stuff ( 'you buy something, one dollah'). We got a snack and a drink in a little cardboard box, which pleased Sal no end, she was even more pleased when I managed to spill the drink down my shorts...