Wednesday 27th January
Papamoa to Christchurch

Rain last night but very cloudy and overcast this morning.

South Island said to have 33% more land and 75% less people than North Island

Had a fabulous few days and after lots of hugs we're off. Driving to Auckland for our flight to Christchurch. Approx 8hrs door to door. We left Mike's in plenty of time taking into account that the traffic was bad on the way there and we've got to take the car back before our flight.

Set off on our flight to South Island. Departed 3.15 and arrived Christchurch 4.20 - in the pouring rain and 15 deg!!! Whats going on here??!!! Got the super-shuttle bus to the Novotel, Cathedral Square and arrived at 4.45. Hotel is nice. It overlooks the Anglican cathedral (or the worlds largest pigeon loft) which was severely damaged in the second earth quake in 2011.

Checked in and just having a cup of tea when the fire alarm went off with a loud speaker warning to evacuate the building. Well, when you're in earthquake city, you don't hang around to see if its real! Standing at the meeting point in the rain and rather chilly still wearing my shorts and flip flops, and didn't know how long we might be there so headed off! to explore. By that I mean its cocktail time! We had a mooch round about and called into Casa Publica which had a roaring fire and cocktails. What more could a girl ask. Menu looks OK to so will probably eat here tonight.

When we got back to the hotel, all had been resolved and we we're allowed back in just in time to wrap up and head out again for a meal at Casa Publica. With a theme based around the legend of a Senior Chile, who became a rum runner during prohibition, then switched to dealing cocaine after liquor was legalised, and is now a Casa shrine to his decadent lifestyle. With shiny gold machine-gun-style lampshades, romantic booths, vintage rum and cocaine runner's paraphernalia, and a selection of women's left foot pumps ! highlighting a rather disturbing fetish of his which would ultimately be his undoing. It's said to have selection of rums (162 and counting) behind the prohibition-cool bar, including a $185-a-shot of ancient 1930s British West Indies Finest Old Rum, which is said to! have taken on a cognac-like aroma. But I'll stick with a Chili cocktail! Wow. That's hot!

Thursday 28thJan
13 degrees - Still raining.

Came out of the air conditioned hotel this morning expecting the heat to hit me but oh no! Colder outside. Brrrr bring back Papamoa sunshine.

We got a ticket for the tram which took us on a tour around the inner city and its truly amazing to see the work that's being done to rebuild the city. When you first enter you see lots of open spaces and grassed areas and unless advised, you may not realise that these open spaces used to be shops, hotels or houses or even the CTV site where many of the 185 victims lost their lives. The most emotional reminder is probably the 185 white chairs of all shapes and sizes each one representing the loss of a life. You can sit awhile and ponder in this space.

Our hotel was right opposite the original Christchurch cathedral and its replacement, not far away, is the cardboard cathedral or the transitional cathedral as its known. It was designed by! Shigeru Ban who is known as a "disaster architect" and he has built many structures in cardboard. It's not just cardboard though it's steel, wood and containers. I believe it has a 20 year lifespan which probably means longer. It is a very impressive structure and even has stained glass windows. When the original cathedral is repaired the cardboard one will be used as a church.

The restart shopping mall is lovely. All the shops are built from containers all brightly painted but don't think it looks like a shanty town, because it doesn't. They look brilliant. Makes me wonder why it's not an idea put into practice more often.

Then we visited quake city which is basically an information centre/ museum telling the story of the quake. The resilience of these people is stunning. How they have bounced back from such devastation. Funds were raised in so many ways.! The ones I remember are the socks people made and sold, "aftersocks" with a picture of the vibration wave form on them, and a special wine,! called 'the day the ground shook like jelly' was brewed, bottled and sold. And then we heard this rumbling sound which I thought was a film in the next room. Oh no it wasn't! One of the staff came over and asked if we felt the quake!! Then we checked the monitor and it was magnitude 4 at a depth of 11km. Now I have no idea if that's something or nothing bit all the same, what's the chances of being in quake city and experiencing a quake??

The botanical gardens were opened on 9 July 1863, when the first tree in the Government Domain was planted. It was known as the Albert Edward oak and was planted to mark the marriage of the Prince of Wales, later King Edward VII, to Princess Alexandra of Denmark. We did a tour on a little caterpillar bus as I could spend all day wandering around the gardens and we were a little tight in time. They had some beautiful flowering boarders and we went into the begonia house which was fabulous. I wish I could grow a border like it.!

A walk along the river Avon was next. This had several historical references on route including some sculptures and one designed by British sculptor Anthony Gormley. Which is a coincidence as we have a 100 lifesize ironmen sculpture called 'Another Place' on Crosby coastline which is only 20 mins drive from our house.

We went for our evening meal to The Bog, an Irish bar which has music on several nights a week. The duo were really good but a bit late coming on after the quiz as they had some trouble with the equipment. All in all, a good day despite the rubbish weather.

Picking up the motorhome tomorrow

Friday 29th January
The start of our motorhome adventure

Temp 12deg. Overcast

Booked our transfer through Supershuttle and they give an excellent service 29$ for the 2 of us hotel to Britz.

Got to Britz campervan place just after 12. We didn't get away until 3pm as there was a bit of a delay due to a faulty battery. But all sorted and off we go. My oh my this is a biggy.

Stopped off at Countdown, the local Asda, to get supplies, mainly wine and beer then headed off. We went through Arthur's Pass.! It's one of the most scenic drives in the South Island and is known as the Great Alpine Highway and! ! goes between Christchurch and Greymouth. It's a ski resort in winter and there was still a little snow on them there hills. The rain has stopped, the sun is out and the scenery is stunning. Mountains all around, rivers criss crossing and everywhere so green and clear blue skies. Just perfect.! Photographs do not do it justice but I've taken loads anyway. It's like the lake district, Scotland and the Alps all rolled into one but more so! Glad of that as its a long way to come!

Our first night in the motor home and we're staying at Jackson's Retreat campsite. At 44$ per night it's a bit expensive but its lovely. Its even got beautiful vases of fresh flowers in the toilets! The pitches are tiered so its not immediately apparent that there are others on the site except for the people next to you who are a good distance away. We have a nice German couple next to us who have given us a few recommendations for places to visit.

We bought a charcoal BBQ but forgot how long it takes in comparison to our gas one. Eventually our pork chops were ready and we really enjoyed them. But so we should as we hadn't eaten since breakfast! Main problem here is the bugs (sandflies)in the evening so you have to cover up and spray or you'll be bitten to death.

Saturday 30th January
Much better this morning the sun is out, the sky is blue ..... Sounds like a song??!!

Slept well in our van after spending much time deciding where to put everything. BBQ sausage for breakfast? Again, we forgot the bbq had to warm up so ended up frying them, then off for a waterfall walk through the rain forest. I went to the shop on site for a bottle of water to take. The lady (who is also the owner) said, just fill your bottle, its all drinkable. I explained we didn't have any empties so she said, hang on. She went over to her house and brought out her own aluminium bottle, filled it up and said, just borrow this and bring it back when you're finished. I was amazed at this. How kind. You couldn't expect any more could you?

The walk was lovely but a bit enclosed and although you could continue the walk to the quartz mines we decided to come back and walk to the river. Not too long a walk as it was pretty deep and fast flowing and very criss cross so we couldn't walk far. Only thing to do was head back and bring out the drinkys. Another couple parked next to us are from Newcastle. They also gave us a few tips on places to stop. We prepared the BBQ in good time tonight and we had a lovely meal. Then I was sitting out updating the blog and the sandflies started so I got my midge jacket on which we got when we were going to Scotland last summer. I look a bit of a tosser and the Geordie's next door actually asked if they could take a photo so look out for that on Face Book! but I was very happy with it but then again, I couldn't see it but I've just caught site of my feet. Sandals and socks!!! Oh no.! As I am sitting here typing with only 4 fingers out of my midge jacket, I had to prize one sucker off my finger as it was certainly biting and did not give up easily!!

But time to go in now as I think the jacket had lots of bugs on and were going on a glow worm walk later so maybe a cup of tea first as the alcohol doesn't seem to be putting them off at all!!

Walking through the rain forest in the day was pretty taxing but doing it in the pitch dark with a small torch which has red cellophane over the lens so as not to scare the kiwi, is just plain terrifying. Probably the several glasses of wine first didn't help either.! When we were tripping over roots etc. it brought back thoughts of us strapping Thelma into wheelchair at Branns Farm with Mike and Gill, and taking her in the pitch black along a narrow ledge to see the glowworms. Crazy days! The glowworms tonight were really beautiful. Like Christmas lights twinkling all around us. Then looking up at the sky through an occasional clearing in the tree canopy and seeing the stars, it was like being in an illuminated bubble with lights all around. We could even see the milky way. Good job we met up with a French chap who was heading for the glowworms too as we got lost coming back and thankfully he pointed us in the right direction or we may have been there until morning.

Sunday 31st January

19deg but warming up
A beautiful morning surrounded by mountains and a symphony of birds singing here at Jacksons Retreat. Sun is shining 19 deg at the moment but warming up nicely. No bbq this morning. Thought we'd go for the easy cornfakes option. All packed up and on our way 9.30am. Traveling through Moanna + Lake Brunner - stunning.

Coastline from Greymouth to Punakaiki pancake rocks is simply breathtaking. Roads like a race track but worth it and the roadside verges are full of wild flowers and lots of blue and white agapanthus and orange montbretia. They look lovely although I believe they are considered a weed here in NZ and a bit of s nuisance.

We stopped at Punakaki which has cliffs and ravines with hundreds of horizontal slices along their vertical faces, like huge stacks of pancakes. Apparently even the scientists don't know why or how this had occurred. One of natures mysteries.! You can't get down on the beach here but there's a walkway so you can see the cliffs really well. Another stunning location.

Then we went to Cape Foulwind where fur seals can be seen in the waves and on the the rocks. The males have gone off leaving the females with the babies and they're so cute!

There's no need for me to go to the gym. Jumping in and out of the van so often to take yet another photo of mountains, fluffy clouds and blue skies will keep me fit enough.

Drove through Westport and found a (department of conservation) DOC campsite at Lyell. It was beautiful. No facilities but we didn't need them. Only problem was the sandflies. They are a menace!! We did the ghost track walk which went through a cemetery from the late 1800s. It was along a narrow high track. I would not like to be carrying a coffin along here! BBQ for tea then bed

Monday 1st Feb
Left camp 9.15
Temp 23 at 11.30am
Through the town of Murchison heading to lake Rotoiti then Marahau

We called at a tourist info office in Murchison and they advised a visit to lake Rotoiti. While I was speaking to the assistant, another head popped up from under the counter and said 'what part of Liverpool are you from then'? Turns out, she was from Aintree, couple of miles down the road from where we live!

After our walk along the side of the lake we had our sandwiches watching some kids jumping off the pontoon into the lake and people swimming or water skiers. The lady in the tourist info told me if we were going to lake Rotoiti to make sure I took some bread and throw it from the bridge. I said 'are there ducks'? She said 'wait and see. Just take the bread' so I did.! There were ducks, but when I threw the bread along came these huge eels, swimming from under the bridge.! There were 2 young boys who were very excited to see them so I threw some bread in their direction. They were actually stroking them! One of the eels in particular was enormous! The boys headed off to get their snorkel and mask so they could swim with them. I kid you not, it was like a seething mass of wriggling snakes! I was thinking of Louis and Daisy. Daisy would be with those boys with her snorkel and Louis would've been firmly on the bridge with me!

We had some cheese barmcakes for lunch admiring the view then headed for our next stop Marahau where our campsite buddies from Germany advised us to go. We had been driving a while when I felt an itch on the back of my neck. Gave it a little rub then out of the corner of my eye saw this 2 inch long black creature walking down my arm. Sam nearly died when I screamed and shrugged it off. Only problem is, where did it go and will it reappear while we are tucked up in our beds??!!

We got to the site in Marahau and its lovely. Right opposite the beach. We've got a good size pitch and its 35$ a night. We've just booked for 1 night but will probably book another in the morning. We also booked the water taxi to take us to Anchorage Bay tomorrow then we can walk back to site, about 9 miles!! There's a really nice bar and restaurant here! overlooking the sea and we just managed to get there in time for happy hour.! BBQ chicken at our van for tea and then a walk along the front and time for bed

Tuesday 2nd February
Weather is lovely

Booked another night here at Marahau then got the water taxi at 10.30. It's a speed boat but they come to the site to pick you up with a tractor towing the speed boat. You get in and they drive out to the water. They call it land boating!! It seemed really funny to be sitting in a speed boat bring driven along the road!

We got dropped of at Anchorage Bay but before that our boat driver took us past an island which has baby fur seals (only found in NZ) and then to see the infamous? split apple rock which is said to be the second most photographed rock in the southern hemisphere. The first being Aires Rock. We got off the boat and started our walk which is part of Able Tasman National Park. The first part was on a bit if a slope so lots of photo stops in order to get a second wind but then it was a great track and quite level. It was dappled shade, great for the sun with glimpses of the sea through the trees then some spots opening up to spectacular views you just wanted to gather up and save for a rainy day. There were paths down to stretches of beach too. We did take the opportunity to stop on one of the beaches for our sandwiches. It was a beautiful spot. We got talking to a young girl who was from Vancouver. She was travelling alone and had been to Japan, Australia, North island NZ and had decided she wanted to visit all the continents including Antarctica having previously visited India and Asia. She hadn't advised her family yet, but thought she may as well do it now. Amazing! Considering she had no transport and is getting from place to place by bus ALONE!! I asked her does she fund her travels herself or does Mum and Dad pay. She said its all her own doing. She doesn't drink or go out for meals or smoke, she saves for travel. I'm amazed at these young people. Not sure of her exact age but still in education and not her gap year yet so under 20 I'd say! Good luck to her.

A lovely walk. Got back just after 4. Put a wash on, bargain at 3$ including washing powder. Then happy hour drinks at the bar, shower and back to the restaurant for our table booked for 6.30.! Had a lovely meal, catch of the day, fish beginning with G is all I can remember which was lovely. Got chatting to a very interesting couple from down south of England who have done lots of travelling including working in a school in Nigeria. Great listening to their stories and them telling us of their daughter's adventures travelling the world alone. When you set off on your travels you think you're being quite adventurous but the more you speak to people the more you realise that we're quite tame in the scheme of things. It's really great to hear how the other half live.

Off to bed now. Heading for Nelson tomorrow.