San Cristobel is very famous for its markets, traditional goods and the culture of the local people. We visited 2 villages outside San Cristobel, eager to learn from a local about the ways of life of the people.

Many are still living fairly ´traditional´ lives in adobe houses, they have Mayan crosses outside their houses which are the centre of their family life. The medicine often involves the old wise people of the village, herbs and sometimes chickens. Hens can be passed around the head of someone who is ill, and the healing process can begin. A visit to a ´church´demonstrated how the Mayans had appeased the Spanish occupation. The Spainish had a church built in the village, and the locals were prepared to use it - in their own way. The Spainish probably tolerated this as outwardly it appeared the Mayans had adopted elements of the Catholic religion. The locals only allowed a Catholic priest to visit for Baptisms - as that was co incidently also a Mayan traditional ceremony, but the rest of the time the Catholic priests were not welcome. The floor is covered in pine needles, as a barrier between the Mayan world and the ´world of the dead´, and saints are worshipped (including Cathoilic saints) - with a belief that they can bring good as well as evil. The church looked very different, but unfortunately it was not possible to take photos.

We also visited a family (yes, it was set up for the tourists). Women pounding maize to make flour for their bread, other women strapped into weaving looms and manually making shawls and wraps for sale in the artisan markets. (They said that it takes 2 weeks to make one shawl. They sell for about 15 pounds, so again, I wonder, how much was set up for tourists - or are the shawls at market actually machine made??) With the weight of our packs, we didn´t buy anything anyway!

From San Cristobel we travelled to Palenque, a very hilly twisty journey, and a real feel of being in the jungle. We paid for a tour to see our first set of Mayan ruins, situated on the Guatamalan border, and the murals at Bomampek. A few years ago there were some insurgency actions in the area, road blocks are common and so tourists are advised not to attempt the journeys alone. We marvelled at the experience of the ruins on the border. It was a 200 km journey from Palenque by mini bus. We then transfered into motorised launches, and travelled for 1 hour by river in order to reach the ruins. We were greeted by a tribe of howler monkeys high in the trees, and a real atmosphere at the temples. Much was hidden in the trees as the unrest in the area has limited the amount of archeological and restoration work that can take place. There was still an enomous amount of the city to see, and a very impressive set of ruins. It was actually rather a spiritual experience. Bomompek also lived up to expectations - a set of murals, still in colour, created by the Mayans, and interpreted in modern times. The temple again was huge, taking over 5 minutes to walk from the bottom step to the top. That night we slept ´out in the jungle´ - well, actually in a cabana in a Mayan village! - But there was a small snake living in the roof of the house, so it was jungle enough for us.

Of course we also went to see the temple at Pelenque. It is considered to be one of the grandest and largest...but we were far more impressed with what we´d seen the previous days. The grounds were full of market stalls and sellers, it was busy, and naturally, so hot. We were though keen to see the museum, and learn more about the remains themselves.

There are also some amazing waterfalls near Palenque. While we were in Mexico City one of the museums had an exhibition of photographs from around Mexico. Chapas was an area that really stood out, and we were keen to see more of the countryside in this area. We were certainly not disappointed. Clear blue waters, one tall water fall plunging straight into a circular pool, and in another area a long series of water falls, probably over one mile long. No, no canoeists on them, but they probably were canoeable! The water was irresistable, and we both plunged in from a rope swing into one of the pools between the falls. WOW! Unlike the sea, it was COLD, but very refreshing.

After that, a mad dash back to make the night bus at 8pm...there was an almighty rainstorm on the way back so the transport was late, and one of the mini buses had a flat tyre. We just made it to the bus terminal in time, but then we remembered how the buses in the South of Mexico are far less efficient than those in the North of the country. We had over an hour to wait as the drivers tried to bump start the bus (a proper big 54 seater) before finding a different replacement.

A night bus to our Christmas location, Cancun.

We have travelled overland by public transport all the way from Vancouver, since the end of October.

It has been a very interesting journey so far.

We´re now aware of starting to double back, retracing our steps, and also mixing our overland with flights....in quest of snowy mountains. But first, Christmas on the beach.