Happy Easter! Is someone 30? Happy Birthday too! 

We arrived as planned to Coyhaique on the plane, to find that it was Easter, and being a Catholic country, the Chilians take Easter very seriously. Coyhaique was a ghost town, and all campsites in our trusty Footprint Guide were no longer in existance. There is something unsettling about arriving in a new town in the early evening with a full pack and no accomodation. In the more dodgy countries, we always said that we were at our most vulnerable at this time. We were heading out of town on this evening in search of a woodland campsite 2 km from town, with views over the deep river valley - sounds idealic. A family were walking the other way, and we enquired if they knew of the campsite to which we were heading. Some doubtful faces, and they offered that we should follow them and they would show us where we could camp for free.�They took us in the opposite direction, past their house to the forementionned river to an old campsite that clearly hadn't ben used in years. They gave�us reassurances that it was not used by drug deallers or local�yobs, and they gave us water from their house so we could cook. They offered us�coffee and showers - which we refused, but were so kind and went out of their way to help us. The following day we moved to camp in the back garden of an offical hostel, but we bumped into this kind couple twice more�during our enforced stay in the town.

We had to wait for a bus out - there was a limited service�as we were out of season, and of�course, it was Easter. During this time, we were accompanied by a lovely golden retriever on one of our walks. We headed into the woods, and were away for a full 6 hours. Bouncer walked with us, laid down in front of us while we discussed the route, went foraging on his own and then returned faithfully to our side! We seem to be a magnet for stray dogs at the moment! ��

We were able to get a bus out, and actually the couple of days�of sitting tight in one place was a good thing for us - we even had time for a coffee in a local cafe, and Jim caught the end of the Pompey Man U match, finally ending a really bad post Christmas run for Pompey. We then headed up the Carretera Austral on a dirty road that was only built in 1978.�It is the first road to link the Coyhaique area with the rest of Chile, and the motives include tourism, and�a military motive. It allows the movement of the military. - Apparently they were afraid of a possible border violation by their near neighbour...sound familiar?�

It is a beautful road going through virgin rain forest. We've seen photos�of it. However, we were treated to thick mist, and condensation clad mini bus windows. You can't�always be lucky!

After a noctural�ferry ride to Punta Montt and another bus ride we arrived in Pucon. The town is dominated by� the snow capped Vallarica Volcano and a�lake�of the same name, in an amazing settling. It is a pretty resort town, and we enjoyed a bike ride in the shadow of the volcano,�2 days walking in the nearby national park, and a 5am start in an aborted attempt to climb the�volcano - The mist really was thick that day.

We are now preparing to leave South America, with happy hearts. It is definately time to move on. We have enjoyed lots of the cultural aspects of Bolivia and Peru, we have enjoyed the views and the greater independence offered in Patagonia (away from the compulsory organised tours needed in the north of the continent), and the daily challenges of travelling.�������

We are heading first to Santiago, and 2 nights there, and then a 16 hour flight to Auckland. We leave at 10 pm Wednesday, and arrive 4am on Friday. Work that one out!