We have not seen much of Dublin yet, but if we had to go home tonight, I'd say Dublin is magic.

After arriving at the airport we, as usual, had to go through the grueling routine of getting to our apartment. We are far too stubborn to simply call a cab. Between us, we have a double case of "challenge-itis" that we give-in to regularly. The address of our apartment is 151 North Circular Road -- that should have been a hint. Yes, it circles Dublin, with a north and a south version, and each, reasonably so, is long. We managed the right buses masterfully until the last leg. We congratulated ourselves for finding the way to Circular Road but we got off the bus quite a distance from our place. We ended up dragging that baggage on cobblestone walks for a long, long way. . . yet once again. Since we only had about 3-4 hours sleep the night before and had been up since 1:30 am with time change, we arrived at the apartment about 10:30 am in raging zombie stage.

Liam, our landlord, gave us a nice welcome and spent time telling us about the area and possible restaurants, pubs and other places to visit. He and Stan made immediate connections since Liam is in the construction business and rehabs apartments in his spare time. We asked Liam if it's true that Irish folk enjoy corned beef and cabbage and told him we'd like to have some if it's available. He said no -- corned beef and cabbage is not a staple dish in Ireland (hmmm???) but recommended Hanlon's Pub down the block, saying if anyone would have it, they may. He added that their food is great none the less.

We settled in and went out to explore a bit and pick up some necessities. Since we passed Hanlon's on the way to the market, we stopped in to check-out the menu. Graham, the manager, met us and introduced us to the chef, and showed today's fare. No corned beef today. He was offering cabbage and bacon instead. Now somewhere along the line we Americans have been led to think it was corned beef the Irish people favor. We have been taught that the only appropriate food for St. Patrick's Day (the day we all salute our Irish heritage) is corned beef and cabbage with green (or any) beer. Honestly though, Stan and I learned that the Irish folk don't serve corned beef. While they do love their cabbage and they do love their beer, cabbage and bacon is the REAL Irish tradition--even on St Patty's Day. I'll say this about the bacon, the Irish people must be sorely disappointed when they visit the US and have our bacon -- it is NOT the same. Bacon to the Irish is juicy, roast, cured pork tenderloin served atop cabbage or potatoes. Oh my gosh! It's really a treat!

Graham also told us that today happens to be Guinness Day. Everyone at the pub at 5:59 pm, will be served a free Guinness to celebrate Arthur Guinness's birthday. I had never had a Guinness. Our agenda was set.

We tried that cabbage and bacon, we also had peas, carrots and mash--it was unbelievable!! After many meals of more ethnic varieties and rich, French/Belgium dishes in the past few weeks, this was real food. We had no idea how much we would enjoy that meal. And when were done, Graham said to us, "Today is two-for-one day for you! We like Americans!" Can you believe that? We were charged for only one of the huge meals and not two! He did it just because . . .

Completly stuffed, all we could think about was getting a nap! (again)

After a little rest, we fulfilled our commitment and returned to Hanlon's for the Guinness celebration. Now this is a genuine Irish Pub -- they all are in Dublin, right??? You can Google it and see for yourself though. They had a three-some playing Irish music with a banjo, guitar and a Celtic hand drum called a Bodhran. They waved us in. The folks around us all introduced themselves and sang along with the band. I didn't know the words, but I sure wanted to join in. The music will absolutely bring tears to your eyes, especially when you look around and see the passion with which the patrons were singing along. It was fabulous. And yes, we had the Guinness, and it's as they say, dark and a bit sweet with a creamy head on top. A perfect pint requires two pours, one overflowing the glass for the foam to settle and then another for the final creamy layer. People kept buying us pints -- I saw six glasses on our table at one time! Believe me, one or two is plenty! We just passed them out to ohers in the crowd! The singers asked where we were from and talked about how they love bluegrass music in Georgia, and switched over from the Irish ballads for a bit and sang a few songs in our honor -- "Rollin' in my Sweet Baby's Arms", "Rocky Top", "Country Road" and The Eagles' "Lyin' Eyes". Jim, on the left in photos, and Collin on the right, asked me to join them at their seats and told me the next song was for me. They said it was performed by Al Jolson, and its name is , "When You Were Sixteen." This time, as they sang, I really did get teary. . .

It makes me wonder . . . how is it that we get to enjoy such fine and special treatment and such amazing experiences in a place we've never known! It stuns my senses, but warms my heart.

Still a bit exhausted, we were home by 7:30 pm. What a day!