Two super fun surfs today. First one at an unnamed break. According to Dickinson our skipper 'not even a real surf spot'. Second one at Muts, appropriately.

The set up at Muts is all time. Peeling left-handers off a white sand island that you can see right around from the boat. An old fallen tree defining the scape. An eagle perched on the tip of a tree root shooting vertically into the sky. A tiny channel between the sand bar and a lush, vivid green island bursting with fauna. One adventurous coconut palm leaning out off the hilly edge as if jostling for position to take the best view of the line up.

We arrived here to cracking thunder exploding from deep grey clouds set against the bluest of skies. I snuck in only 5 or 10 minutes in the water before the squalling rain and wind destroyed the calm. Really keen to get a wave though, I swapped boards with Tim and my world opened up. On the bigger 6'6" I raced a whole bunch of peelers right down the line, all the while the wind gradually dropping off, to nothing.

The boys are likely spewing the swell has backed off today. I've had a ball! Completely shattered after 5 or 6 hours in the water. Happiness.