or wierd really! The central highlands is both the most and least communist bit of vietnam. On the way there we were instructed not to take any photos at all on the road of anything including scenary. The bus was not allowed to stop anywere except the 1 designated picnic and loo stop and we were not allow to "hang about in the village".... CH are still a restricted area after trouble as recently as 2000 between the government and the hilltribe people. Our new guide, who we have had for over a week now is called Sinh (pronouced shin) and is very much more a Party man than Tri from last time. He has been both in the army and police and is a devote buddist. Apparently there is and never has been any conflict in vietnam between religion and communism... I have learnt so much more from Shin about the history of vietnam than Tri, but am more confused than ever on many issues, but it's a very complex subject (very complex people). The government are building a whole new town up in the highlands, the roads and government buildings are there, as are the army, but so far no people. We asked where the poeple were coming from, but the up to then very articulate Shin didn't seem to understand the question, but there has been previous policies of forceable movement of people from the towns to the highlands, and this looks like a repeat. We decided to stop asking questions when an obviously millitary look out was described as a "park ranger look out station". So on to the hilltribe villages which are infact exclusively catholic. We saw small crowded churchs, with people standing outside as there was not enough room inside. They have either been treated with great fairness and respect since the american war, when they sided with the Americas and south vietnamese, or have been brutally oppressed... The nights were long and noisy, many insects, pigs, crowing cockrels, howling dogs, snoring trip leaders, and it was good to get up at 5.30 this morning, made even better by watching the repeat of Man U beat Chelsea at breakfast. This was a very popular result in the village. Chelsea are making inroads in the towns, but the villages remain devotedly red!! The picture is actually appropriate for once, because after the thrill of the football came the elephant ride. Just an hour or so through paddy fields and lake, but not exactly on my list of favourite things Am now in a very average beach resort, but the shower was lovely! Will add again soon Jae