Today we were to leave Muang Ngoi and head back to Nong Khiaw so we could get the night bus to Vieng Xai where we would see the Pathet Lao caves. We were both really wanting to see the caves but were apprehensive for the amount of travel and money involved for such a short turn around. We woke at 6.30 and packed the remainder of our things before heading out for breakfast. We were to try the buffet opposite yesterday's (same price, same food choices but looked better quality with less flies). We headed out and paid the twenty thousand kip (1.70) and settled down, ordering a tea each. We then headed to the buffet and filled our plates with piles of scrambled egg, omelette, potato fritter, fried rice and so on before sitting down and tucking in... Once we had enjoyed the savouries we moved on the the sweet with American pancakes with honey... They were delicious! Followed by fruit and a cup of coffee. It was pretty tasty and I just wished I had more space for the pancakes as they were yummy.

After breakfast we headed back to our room to relax a little before the boat at nine thirty, we read a little and paid our bill before the time to leave was upon us. We took our bags and headed out to the boat deck, which was literally a set of steps just outside our guesthouse. We were joined there by a few westerners who we had got to know over the last few days by continuously passing them and said hello and had a chat. One boat was already fully loaded so we waited for the next one to be pulled in towards the steps where we climbed on... Not easy when your six foot tall with a heavy bag and a very low roofed and narrow canoe type thing. A short time later however we were safely aboard with me next to a local girl and her young daughter while chatting with a Greek guy about photography. Steven sat enjoying the ride and the rare cool breeze that accompanied the boat as it flew down the river. The girl next to me (who we had shown our bungalow to on arriving so soon became our neighbour) was telling me that a man had come on to the boat grasping a plastic bag full of chicks... We hoped they were for the next destination and not to be thrown in the river but felt for the little guys regardless... Not the best way to transport chicks, they were chirping though so that was a good sign.

The boat journey took about an hour and passed quickly, it stopped intermittently on random shores letting off local people and then sped off again. We carried on chatting and comparing photos for the remainder of the journey with the odd reassuring chirp from the chicks to keep us happy. Soon we saw the familiar bridge of Nong Khiaw and knew we were almost on dry land. We disembarked... Fairly easily as the driver offloaded our main bags and headed up the steps thanking him on passing. Here we sat with some guys and girls we met in Muang Ngoi while we decided on a plan of action. They were headed back to Luang Prabang and were just sipping a beer and killing time while we were trying to work out the best way to get to these caves at Vieng Xai. We found out there was a bus at sometime after five pm so you had to just sit and wait on the corner where the Indian restaurant was and hope for the best.

We decided in the meantime to head to local riverside bar where we would drink plenty of water and bide our time while waiting for the bus. While waiting we researched the journey and the area and how easy it would be to cross to Vietnam from there as our original plan meant we would cross all the way to the east border fairly near to Hanoi before coming all the way back to the west border to Vientiane just to get a bus to Hanoi... It seemed crazy but the border close to Vieng Xai is underused and although the crossing is fine you will get scammed and ripped off after you have crossed... I read the blog of a girl who was charged over forty dollars for a bus. We were both keen to see the caves but could see what an absolute pain it was going to be as we would have such a quick turn around. We would have to get there, see the caves and get back in about three days and it would cost over one hundred pounds in the process. We were pretty torn but eventually decided to give it a miss... At least for tonight so we could have a proper think about it.

To be honest I think we were both really excited about the caves but we are both pretty tired and lethargic from the constant too'ing and fro'ing and Steven for sure wants to head back to Vang Vieng and chill out. We headed to the Indian for advice from the owner on Luang Prabang buses (this would be the first stop regardless) and he was very helpful phoning the bus station and finding out prices and times. We were in two minds as I felt we had spent a week there already and really liked it here. In the end we decided to spend the night here and make a plan.

We headed off in the direction of the guesthouses and thought we would try and get a river view. We looked at a couple... One with no view then one that was quoting sixty for a view and one quoting one hundred for a view before we stumbled upon some bungalows for fifty at bamboo bungalow resort. They had a nice view of the river and were of a good size so we took it. It was a wooden hut on tall stilts with a bathroom attached and a comfy looking bed complete with pink mosquito net.

While standing on the balcony we heard a hello and next door was the Belgium girl Suzy who we met in the Indian a few nights ago and bumped into in the village. They were back as well and this was where she had originally stayed. We settled in with Steven on his trusty hammock and me taking far too many pics before we relaxed with a beer and read our books... This was what Steven wanted. He wanted to chill by the river and read his books with a beer, so what kind of girlfriend would I be to deny this haha. I made a video for my brother from our balcony (his 21st soon) before sitting to admire the view. Suddenly the sky got grey and lit up... A storm was coming, the sky remained bright and sunny to the right but was a deep shade of grey to the left with the clouds swirling up angrily. suddenly there was a howling wind blowing a hoolie and everything shook. We could see rain off in the distance but it was a little while before we heard it on our tin roof and saw the monsoon rain shortly after. We sat in awe at this amazing sight as the rain crashed down and the wind blew like crazy. This was accompanied by the loudest thunder and brightest lightening I was yet to see in Asia. We spent the next hour marvelling at the tropical storm beating down on the river from the dry sanctuary of our balcony with the night bus nothing but a distant memory.... Bliss.

Later we headed to the Indian and treated ourselves to a slap up meal, which was very tasty although a little mild for my chilli loving tastes. We had noticed the electricity was out in our bungalow but assumed it was because they were wooden bungalows and couldn't withstand the wind and rain. However on arriving at the Indian we found it was the same all over town, on returning to the guesthouse we found out why... The storm had blown down a power cable so looked like it would be a very dark night ahead. We sat for a while enjoying the darkness before we noticed that the electricity was on across the river... You couldn't tell initially as there is a vast amount of vegetation hiding the bars and restaurants behind but there was definitely lights on. We thought we may as well cross the bridge and check out the 'Hive bar', which is the only bar in town. We wandered out into the darkness and meandered through the small stony mud filled walkways before we found ourself back on the main road. We headed for the bridge and then for the bar, there was music pumping and strobe lights flashing but on entering... Just the owner and his wife. He jumped up as soon as we entered and told us it was 'happy hour' which meant ten per cent off, not making me happy when the cocktails were mostly forty or fifty thousand kip. We ordered a beer, which although expensive was the cheapest alcohol on the menu. He also gave us our free shot and said we could play our choice of music... We said the music playing was fine and then sat chatting and sipping our beer. The atmosphere didn't improve and we remained the only two people here so we finished our beer and headed back over the bridge where we were faced with the bright lights... The electricity had returned.