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ARRIVAL IN CUENCA
Apologies for the delay in this update, and to those who attempted to view our photos over the last few days and only had red crosses to look at. We´ve tried to fix it but internet technology is lacking here in Cuenca, uploading is a laborious process but hopefully we´ve managed to now get a few on board.
The trek since we left Bucay has taken many new turns, but we have now officially arrived in Cuenca. After being kindly looked after by the Merino family we set off on the road to Cuenca with the horses newly shod and the sun finally shining. The first day saw us ascend a vertical 1000 meters and the following day a decision loomed over two possibilities: 1. The taking of a mountain pass, visible on our twenty year old maps, to the Chunchi valley, the other side of our camp spot or 2. Spending a day longer, taking the alternative but definite route.
We unanimously selected the mountain pass. All went well, we came across a few landslides and the horses impressed us with their nimble footing, making easy work of nature´s obstacles. We came to the final landslide before the descent to Chunchi when a stray tennis ball-sized rock came from above a gave Gansa, the mare, a deep cut on her back-right leg. She made it the other side and was still able to put her weight comfortably on her injured leg. Nick and Phil got to work with the dressing and gave her the necessary injections, while Ed looked after the four horseson the other side.
We elected not to risk the other horses over the same ground and after some reconnaissance, in the fading light, we found an alternative route that meant both parties could meet again. We were fortunate to come across the owner of a hacienda, Pedro Cisneros, just as dark settled. We were upset by the day´s events. The unfortunate Gansa was happily eating grass as we further inspected her. With advice from others nearby it seemed she would be off games for over a month.
Pedro suggested something that helped our decision making enormously. His cousin, the owner of another hacienda, 10 miles due East, was keen to buy horses. He was certain that we could safely take the horses over in a truck, be able to arrange a deal for Gansa and then ride four horses, with a guide, over the high paramo (14,100 feet in areas), on a route to Cuenca that would take four days. In Cuenca we could then start piecing together the remaining 200 miles of Ecuador and decide whether we needed a fifth horse.
Everything at this point happened as planned, Pedro´s cousin loved Gansa, he owned plenty of other horses and land and we were happy that she would be well looked after. The following morning we rode over some of the most awe-striking scenery that the Andes can offer with our guide, aptly named Leonidas. At one of the highest points, calamity struck once more as Pajarito lost his footing on some rocks and went down onto his front. Ed, surveying the steep land, decided bailing out was a good option, but as he came off his shin came down hard on a rock and he reopened the wound where he was kicked two weeks earlier. Doctor Sutton went to his emergency kit once more and made a fine job of cleaning the wound and shaving Ed´s leg in the right area. After some failed attempts at surgical stapling, the wound was dressed and Ed felt fine to carry on to Ingapirca, where the team arrived four hours later after more breathtaking scenery along the old Inca Roads. Ed was happy to be seen in hospital in Canar by some efficient nurses, but received bad news in that he will be off riding for about two to three weeks.
We slept that night in the old Inca ruins at Ingapirca and felt truly at one with our trip. We discussed future plans as we lay in our sleeping bags. As frustrating as the wound is for Ed, it has its silver lining. We have so far found that one of our biggest concerns has been weight. Without packs, the horses can cover larger distances in shorter spaces of time. We know that we have to get a support vehicle when we reach the savage terrain of Peru to ensure the horses´ well being with food and water. Ed´s time off riding should cover the rest of our journey in Ecuador, during which time he can provide logistic support and take buses with some bags to speed the process of Nick, Phil and the four horses. In Peru a vehicle will be arranged that one of the riders can drive to towns to pick up feed and drink for the horses, whilst the others ride. It is not long until Quita Collard joins us and thus we will be back in syncronisation with our old plan… hopefully…
We spent some valuable rest days in Cuenca, although Phil and Nick both suffered from nasty stomach upsets, they are now on the mend. We were, yet again, shown immense hospitality by another family. The Lopez ´s and friends let us use their house for us and the horses as well as culturally versing us in the traditions of Cuenca.
This morning Phil and Nick set off on the trek to Loja in a journey that they hope will take about four days. Ed is staying to get his leg fully sealed for a few more days before joining them in Loja.
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