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We've now finished our tour of Alaska. After Seward, we went via the beautiful Tern Lake, which was almost Dead Duck Lake, as an RV hurtled round the bend, running over a mother duck with a sickening thud, missing the train of 5 ducklings following her. Cue James leaping into action to find her, unbelievably it looks like she rolled under the RV, and after being hassled by a gull, she wobbled rather unsteadily back to her brood. Phew.
Carried on through the peninsula, and it's been a wildlife bonanza: we've watched a black bear scrobbling salmon from a fisherman on the Kenai River (haha) whilst bald eagles flew overhead, and had our very own bull moose chomping foliage above our tent whilst wild camping near Nikiski. Imogen then had a large stone in the tent that night as a Moose Worrying Stone, much to James's amusement (it went unused)
This was also the scene of our first bike drop, a skid going up a kerb as we were sheltering from the rain, boy, is the AT heavy! Lesson No 1: don't pick up the bike holding the fairing as it can cut your fingers (well done Imogen!)
Having been to the most northerly point, we decided to go to the farthest western (by the highway system, before anyone comes back with a "oh no it isn't!) at Anchor Point, on the Cook Inlet. Obligatory dull looking photo taken.
At Homer we joined the many hangers on at the Spit. It seems slightly the victim of it's own success, going from a hippy/hardy fisherman hangout to an RVtastic halibut boat tour mecca. We camped up on the beach, had a swifty at The Salty Dawg, of course met some bikers that we'd previously seen in Coldfoot, then back to a roaring fire in the rain, drinking beers with a First Nation trucker from Kodiak. Great evenings happen like this when you least expect it.
Another crazily hot day followed in Hope, another great alternative enclave with a mellow vibe. We'd been given a secret location to a wild camping spot and we were not disapointed, spending another evening watching the unbelievable bore tide on Turnagain Arm. At Hope there was a wonderful museum on the pioneers, a tough old life, I can tell you, then a rudevup Palmer Creek Road - a fantastic off road jaunt into the mountains where we are gluten free cakes, courtesy of the Hope fun run and BBQ event.
Finally back to Anchorage and a welcone spot at Harley Davidson, which rather fabulously allows bikers to free camp there AND use their hot showers, well needed I can tell you. It was great hanging with bikers from around the world, all with a similar outlook and view on life and tips for the road.
We've been following the Alaska pipeline for most of the journey, an incredible piece of engineering, and having seen the start of it in Prudhoe Bay, we've now seen the end of it in Valdez, site of the Exxon Valdez disaster. A great town, reached by some fantastic riding (alas, mostly in low cloud and rain for us) where we had a wildlife bonanza, with grizzly bear sow and two cubs catching salmon from the hatchery (which has over 20,000 salmon a day running there) plus sea lions, seals and sea otters all enjoying the all-you-can-eat buffet.
We spent our final few days in Alaska riding these incredible roads, glacier spotting, chatting to interesting people, mountain viewing the Wrangell - St Elias range and seeing fantastic wildlife. Best road? For Imogen the Tok Cuttoff, for James, the Glenn and the Dalton, just because!
Heading into Canada via the Top of the World Highway. Keep tuned!
- comments
Alison Gee Wow! fantastic scenery. We just love checking out the map pics. Try not to drop that bike again!!! Keep the news coming.
Jane Fantastic blog post, sounds totally amazing.
John Mitchell The pics look more interesting than Toronto. When I dropped my Honda 70 I had no problem picking it up - maybe I'm just stronger.
Steve Hi Imogen & James, Did we see youthis morning (Aug. 1) going into Stewart, BC? It must have been you because we don't see many older Africa Twins with UK registration. Hope you enjoy the bear viewing and the Salmon glacier as much as we did. Steve & Gayle (Bend, Oregon)
Graeme Not jealous at all... ;-)