We've spent nearly two weeks travelling round Alaska, in amazing heat and some torrential downpours and storms. First stop Talkeetna, which claimed to be the inspiration for Northern Exposure. A crazy town which was jam packed for July 4th weekend, so we were able to pitch up at the VFW and necked a couple of welcome beers in the Brew Tap, sheltering from the rain. Met some crazy locals, bikers and artists, one of whom gave Imogen a moose poo pendant (yes really). Everyone is super friendly, even a gun toting Trump supporter surprised us by buying us coffee and breakfast to wish us well on our travels. This pitching up is tricky, outside of Fairbanks we found a Bible Camp which allowed us a spot to set up for the night as we sheltered in their new meeting hall.

Started up on the Dalton Highway, which takes you into the Arctic Circle and if you carry on to the end, Deadhorse, in Prudhoe Bay, the end of the road in the U.S. It is as messy as you hear, those fabled bikers stories of riding the Dalton, getting covered in the mud that sets like concrete as you negotiate potholes and frost heaves. We had camped up at Galbraith Lake so we could ride to Deadhorse and back in one day. As it was, the 150 miles there took 6 hours, Imogen riding in the pilot car through the 51 miles of roadworks, chatting to the native women who work the roads. By God the mozzies were bad, thank goodness for our net hats and spray. Saw a herd of Musk Ox, Arctic Fox and a Snowy Owl, no bears as yet, so the pepper spray remains (thankfully) unused. Got back to camp at 12.30am, with the sun still up, Messing with our circadian rhythms but allowing those crazy long days.

After a night back at Coldfoot, going to the ranger talks and chatting to fellow adventurous types, we decided on a ride to Manley Hot Springs, stone baths in a greenhouse at the end of an 86 mile spur road. Some crazy riding on unpaved chipseal, reminiscent of the Dalton and we arrived at the end of the road, pitching up outside The Roadhouse, a quirky bar, where we treated ourselves to Alaskan Ambers and pizza, thanks to a donation from Graeme and Sam Noble. It's super expensive here, so beers are a treat.

The hot springs were the best $10 ever spent, soaking off road grime and dust surrounded by grapes and orchids. You get the baths privately for an hour, so you go in au naturale. Worth every cent. Met a wonderful couple from Fairbanks who we hung out with, getting tips and ideas for the road. These are the best meetings, chance encounters that enrich.

Getting gas round here is a challenge, normally going to a pump, finding out where the guy lives, asking him to open up and let you grab some. The golden rule is always fill up when you can, as it could be 250 miles or more to the next one.

Crossed over the Yukon River, saw our first black bear at the side of the road (moose have been pootling in front of the bike also, legs going in all directions at once) so high fives all round.

Heading down south to Kenai, the roads and scenery are gorgeous, snow capped covered mountains, glaciers, with clouds hanging over the ranges, giving some of them a Mordor type vibe. Caught one of the worlds biggest bore tides outside of Anchorage, so rested a while brewing up coffee, eating fibre cakes (needed, I can tell you) and watching the surfers ride it, thanks to another great couple who told us to wait and watch it.

Arrived in Seward, so a walk up Exit Glacier, one of the few you can get up close to. It's in the high 20s, so the short walk of 3 miles and a scramble up scree sufficed. We were glad of the catabatic wind off the glacier I can tell you.

Having been free camping all this while is giving us challenges - one likely spot had very large bones in it, so we hustled on out of there PDQ, mostly it's just mozzies and very noisy birds (cue Trumpeter Swans having fun with acoustics, echoing round the lake at one spot) that cause problems. Very grateful for our first shower in 12 days at Seward Spit, where as a bonus, we saw sea otters doing their paws on stomach thing, so feeling like we can face the world again!

Off exploring around the rest of the Kenai Peninsula, next stop, Homer (doh!)