Had a wonderful time in Alaska, but the road was calling south. We crossed the border going over The Top of the World Highway, via the wonderfully named Chicken as the settlers there didn't know how to spell Ptarmigan, the most common bird there.

Arrived at Dawson City in the Yukon in time for their annual music festival. The place looks like a film set, wooden frontages, lots of colour and quite a frontier feel. Explored an old dredger, everything around here is to do with the gold rush of the late 1800s, what these people did was really quite astonishing.

The scenery is still gorgeous, now with huge clouds of pollen and Imogen's (new) favourite smell of the road, White Sweetclover, which is alas, an invasive plant, but it smells gorgeous.

Had our first tire change at Honda in Whitehorse as the rear one was pretty bald now, then hung out with some kids by a lake, hoping that all the signs about bear activity are overly cautious.

Managed a side trip to Alaska from Skagway, another weird frontier town but this one was stuffed full o cruise liners and ritzy shops, not our sort of place at all!

At Teslin, we came across a gathering of First Nation clans, Haa Ķusteeyí, and we were welcomed in to join them. Music, food, dancing and ceremony. James helped bring in the salmon from the float plane, which was sung in by the Tlinget. After watching some amazing dancing from Git Hayetsk, People of the Copper Shield, we volunteered at the potlach, helping serve up moose nose and porcupine tail, whilst cooking up steaks and dessert of berries. An emotional evening all round and we learnt a lot about being part of this culture.

Headed on to the Stewart Cassiar Highway, probably the best road yet - glorious scenery with mountains, lakes, twisty roads and hardly a soul about. Gathered wild mini strawberries, and saw our first porcupine and Little Brown Bats in a bat walk at Watson Lake. Still learning about the Yukon area and the building of the Alaska Highway during WWII. Quite a feat of engineering.

James saw his first hummingbird, so he's happy and we also keep bumping into the same people! We're meeting some great characters on the road - with a UK number plate and a 1991 Africa Twin, we're quite noticeable.

Yet more signs warning of bears, and loose gravel on the roads ("use EXTREME caution") but all is good and so gorgeous.

Our meals are pretty much consisting of porridge and honey, bagels with dill pickle (yumm) and cream cheese and pasta, so when we see adverts for bakeries claiming that they make the best cinnamon buns in town, we're in there! Yes, the ones in Valemont and Stewart are pretty good, plus The Thing was filmed in Stewart, so two birds.

Riding through the wildfires in BC has been quite something, a bit like the apocalypse, the devastation will be huge, but the forests do need to burn, so it's a difficult situation when there are homes at risk.

Been mostly free camping on logging roads, watching wildlife, picking berries and soaking it all in. There is a lot of First Nation heritage in BC and the Yukon, so we normally go see the towns and totem poles, all very different from England.

Our last 2 weeks in Canada have been spent riding the Icefields Parkway (not much ice, but unbelievably gorgeous) avoiding Jasper and Whistler, we managed 10 mins there before freaking out, and soaking in hot springs.

Chatting to more bikers we decided on a trip round the Kootenays, again, beautiful, quite different landscape, with lots of haze from the fires, so we think the mountains are there somewhere.

More to follow, we're off to look round Coulee Dam, but we hope this keeps you up to date for a bit.