I got a bus (50m) to Cirkewwa on the northernmost tip of Malta then a ferry across the water to Mgarr on the island of Gozo. I left super early so was on the boat by 8:30am and on Gozo by 9. Caught a bus to the capital Victoria (Rabat), in the centre of the island, where I visited the amazing Il Kastell for more medieval hilltop settlement panoramic views - this time of the island of Gozo- and two sumptuously beautiful churches. Gozo is a small island and from Il Kastell I could see right across the entire island, which is characterised by flat planes with high rocky hillocks and villages with dominating churches clustered upon them. I had planned to hire a bicycle and cycle on Gozo but one look from the top of this castle made me change my mind! Im not shy of hills but cycling up a series of really steep hills on narrow roads in 30C heat, being overtaken by mad Maltese drivers is not my idea of fun!

Il Kastell has a fascinating history- in the 16th/17th century, the Gozitabs were terrorised by nightly raids from pirates from the Mediterranean so for many years the entire population of the town retreated within the small walled hilltop castle every night, for protection from the maurading Turks.

I'm not having much luck with the timing of my church visits- keep arriving when they are holding Mass, so I have to either go in and sit and listen and look, or peer round the corner and come back later. This happened to me twice today! The second was at the church of Ta’Pinu, so I peaked then left and walked through the hot midday heat to the village of Gharb, to catch a bus to Dwejra.

Dwejra is spectacular limestone coastline with natural features including the appealingly name Fungus Rock, the now collapsed arch forming the Azure Window and the “blue hole” chimney where divers can go down to very deep depths in a chimney of rock. Dwejra was beautiful, but rocky and very hot (Malta is essentially rocky and very hot!)

I had a bit of a wobble after Dwejra as I didn't know what I wanted to do next and couldn't decide so I ended up back at the ferry terminal at 2pm; realised I was being ridiculous so got on a bus to another part of the island. I didn't know if I would be able to come to Gozo again, so I wanted to make the most of my day and not be back at the hotel by early afternoon. My bus trip was to visit another Neolithic megalithic ruined temple- this one Ggantija (giant) at Xaghra. Ggantija is more weathered by the elements than the temples of Mnajra and Hagar Qim, but it's impressive by its size- walls still standing two stories high, made from vast rocks stacked on top of one another. The weathering here is really severe, with the rocks pitted and porous from the effects of rain. Back to the ferry I paid €2 for a ride on the open top "Malta Sightseeing" bus. I'm glad I got my regular bus pass, happy to use regular buses most of the time to get around, but it was lovely to ride up top with wind in my hair up and down steep windy roads with beguiling views of coves and inlets and boats out at sea. Caught the 17:15 ferry back to Malta, having had a lovely day.

I really liked Gozo and would like to have another day here before I leave.