We've come 500km north of Adelaide into what many people would probably consider the quintessential Australia - the 'Outback'.

Like, I suspect, many people, I imagined the Outback as consisting of endless flat plans devoid of life but for the kangaroos bounding along like demented, overgrown rabbits on pogo sticks. Well it's true that there are long stretches of very flat land but they are covered by, albeit sparse, vegitation. And you're much more likely to see a sheep than a kangaroo - at least in most places. What is surprising is the hills and mountains in the Flinders. There are extensive areas of upland. Dramatic escarpments rise from the plains, their impact heightened by their deep red colour. Gnarled and twisted gum trees mark the course of dry creeks - but which show clear evidence of the flash floods which can occur with little warning.

There are plenty of kangaroos and emus as well as an abundance of colourful and noisy bird life. Lizards dart around on the rocks or, in the case of some of the larger ones, sit in the middle of the road contemptuously ignoring the occasional car that goes past. We go on a walk which the leaflet describes as going through 'exceptional reptile habitat'. Is that a euphemism for 'there will be lots of snakes'? If so they are, thankfully, making themselves scarce today.

We've come to Wilpena Pound - which looks like a huge volcanic crater but is actually a natural amphitheatre- and are staying at the Wilpena Pound Resort. This is not as grand as it sounds. There is a swimming pool but you'd be hard pressed to swim in it, although there are several large insects practicing their breaststroke when we go in. And we do get a touch of luxury. On a trip to watch the sunset we are served sparkling wine with canapes - smoked roo, emu pate (a bit strong - I don't think it will catch on) and bush tomato paste.

And it's hot. Starting at 8 in the morning we climb Mount Ohlssen Bagge. It only takes 90 minutes to reach the top but by then the temperature is climbing and I'm reminded of the time we climbed Pic St Loup during Pete's 50th. Later on we take advantage of our rental 4WD and drive along the bed of a dry creek looking for the rare Yellow-footed Rock-wallaby. These fantastic looking small kangaroos have forearms, hind-legs and feet that are a rich orange to bright yellow colour and a long orange-brown, striped tail. We see one that bounds away up the steep side of a gorge showing, surprisingly, how well adapted they are to such a habitat.

In the excellent Wadlata Outback Centre in Port Augusta the exhibits and displays set out, by contrast, how ill adapted Europeans are to this harsh, unforgiving terrain where temperatures have been known to reach above 50 degrees (someone told us that they've had a bad summer because it only got above 40 on ten days) and water and food is scarce and hard to find. The early explorers and settlers came hoping to find inland seas and fertile plains. Quite why they stayed when it became clear these didn't exist is something of a mystery.