From Cebu we took the fast ferry over to Negros Oriental arriving in the early evening in Dumaguete a university town in the south. Unfortunately Dumaguete appears to have a constantly unappealing aroma.You all know what I mean, that kind of disgusting sewer smell that you always get on holiday. Well we've had our fair share of that over the last few months but this was particularly pooey. What would have been a lovely promenade along the seafront was ruined a tad by the stink and it was clear that sewage treatment isn't a priority here - just pump it into the sea seems to be the approach.

Dumaguete is quite a popular ex-pat destination; everywhere you look there are old white guys with young Filipino women. I find it quite depressing and it's a pattern that isn't unusual in some Southeast Asian countries but nonetheless there has to be something a little odd with men of pensionable age running around with these young girls. Anyway morality lecture over, onwards to the town of Valencia and a little day trip to the waterfalls. A trusty tricycle took us to Valencia and with much gesturing we discovered he couldn't make it up to the waterfalls as the road is too steep. But in true Filipino style he arranged an alternative mode of transport for us, a Habal Habal (direct translation - Pigs copulating), also known as motorbike taxi. Now for anyone who's been outside of Europe you'll be familiar with the practice of getting whole families on motorbikes, an impressive feat made slightly easier if you are of small Asian stature. Not quite so easy when you're the size of James and I. We climbed on behind our driver wondering what was the etiquette for holding on as the road began winding ever steeper up the mountain. Poor James, sat directly behind the driver didn't think it appropriate to cling to the guy's waist!

The falls were lovely, one single stream cascading into a deep blue pool below. Not a soul to be seen and no life jackets bobbing in the pool, it was quite stunning. After a paddle and a dip we walked back down the mountain, passing a rather fantastic sign on the way which read 'WARNING. No hanging, playing, Bazura dumping here! Children left unattended will be sold to the circus' Hilarious, we have no idea what Bazura dumping is though.