'My name is Bond - James Bond.'
Well, I have to admit that they were not the words that I expected to hear, as I stepped into an air conditioned car, out of the heat and the scorching sun. This was the driver for our five hour journey to Hoian from Hue.
As we left the Orchid Hotel, a very attentive member of staff informed me that we had a really good driver. Her words were not wrong. What an adventure!
'James ' a slight Vietnamese man, spoke fluent English and clearly had a love of James Bond - the whole image of fast cars and going to places in the world. It was naturally a totally different world to the one he lived in. Although he had this love of the films he had never watched the whole of a Bond movie. It was too expensive for him, so he watched snippets on 'You Tube.'
This quite remarkable man, who was early 40s was an absolutely font of information, he was able to answer all of the questions that we asked - ranging from the role of the man in Vietnamese society to world politics. His knowledge and perceptions of world and its leaders was fascinating.
Although he loved and was very proud of his country and his family, like so many in Vietnam he felt 'trapped by circumstance' being paid the same wage and knowing that there was never an increase. This seemed very much more apparent in the North than the South, where more money seemed to be made.
This meant that he could could only imagine fulfilling his dreams through the passengers that he drove all over Vietnam. Hence why he was 'James Bond.'
His hopes and aspirations for the future for his three daughters was the same as all parents all over the world. He had broken away from following tradition of working in the paddy fields and he had very modern views for his daughters; despite the fact that he lived at home with his parents, who still pressured him and his wife to provide them with their long awaited 'gift from the Gods' - a grand son, so that the family name could be continued. He just wanted his girls to grow up and achieve their dreams. Perhaps they would live in a James Bond world!
The drive from Hue to Hoian was very beautiful - there was a dramatic change in scenery once we left Hue; countless Paddy fields, some being re planted, some being lush and green. the grey buffalo wallowing in the muddy waters or being used to plough the fields. The mountains that are the backdrop to Danang and Hoian. The beautiful white beaches - searing hot, yet empty and abandoned until later when the temperature dropped.
Our journey with James Bond passed quickly, but will forever last in our memories.
Hoian understands tourism. It's buildings, hotels, the attentive staff, the white beaches, the bars, the night market and the lanterns, that are everywhere and so very beautiful in the evening. The Street Food and restaurants, which make your taste buds salivate and the flavours just explode in your mouth. Truly scrummy.
Everything revolves around ensuring that the visit is memorable. We felt that this is how Halong Bay should to be; at present it is not quite there!
Although we understand that Vietnam is not for every one; we have loved every minute of our adventure.The country is changing and growing quickly. The North is very different from the South, strangely the staff in the hotels speak far better English than those in the South, yet HCMC is very modern and closer to the expectations of visitors from the West. Everywhere is hot, very hot, which does take a few days to adjust too.
We do not seem to have met many fellow 'travellers' of late, only a few holiday makers who always seem fascinated and sometimes stunned with what we are doing. Usually you can see one of them who doesn't quite get it!
Resonses like - 'I'm not sure that's for me,' while the other you can see has a burning desire to follow!!
Some young couples, who travelled before, but are now into careers, seem to relish the opportunity of having time together - perhaps we can take a year out later on?'
What we have both loved is meeting the Vietnamese people, who are very special. There was 'Wees' in Halong Bay who worked on the boat that took all of the tourist out to see the World Heritage Site - a bay full of Islands. Some arrive by sea plane, all have tales of another world, so different from Wees' World.
He had taught himself English by reading the English sub titles on films. He was bright and had such an amazing understanding of the world, yet he felt trapped and struggled to see how he would ever make his fortune. He and his wife visited their two year old son, who lived with his parents, once a month on their day off. Although he had broken tradition of working in the paddy fields , you could just sense his frustration. Perhaps things will change but currently it seems that there is a real divide between those that do and those that don't.
Another gem was the boat lady in Hue. This petite frame collected us from our hotel, she walked at rapid pace and was covered from top to toe. Personally, I thought the thick grey hoodie was a little over the top. I know she wanted to protect her 'white skin ' from the sun, but it was 35 + and by the time we reached the boat, beads of perspiration were trinkling down our faces! I just don't know how he coped - on occasions she too looked hot.
Once on board, through her broken English, we learned that she and her husband and their four children lived on the boat. A very large, framed, family photo hung proudly on the wall. Goodness knows where their 'things' were, as every cupboard was full of goods to sell, from tee shirts to shorts. From bags to dresses. She had so much stacked on boxes in the wardrobe. Then there was the cards, ornaments and souvenirs.
Our two hour trip to the Ancient Pagoda of Hue, passed the walled Citadel that we had visted the previous day, passed so quickly. She was so funny and we laughed so much. It was clear that we all enjoyed each others company. We would never have anticipated such an amazing time and that we would have come away with a few purchases- at a hard to resist price!! Such an unbelieveable day and when you consider that the Vietnamese don't hug we had the biggest hug from our new found 'friend'as we left the boat.
In Ho Chi Minh City we were so lucky to meet up with Rob Wilson and his lovely Thanh, he is so happy in his new home. It was great to be shown around. I was delighted to be able to spend a morning with him in his very British School in HCMC, a wonderful experience, even going in on the back of Mr Rob's moped! It was so like being back in school at home. Although class sizes were a maximum of 20. Just Fab!
Rob organised a Food and Drink Vespa Tour with a few of his friends - if ever you go to HCMC it is a MUST. The drivers were young university students. My driver was a very slight 22 year old, Lynn, who spoke English and spent the evening talking - even more than me. As she darted through the busy traffic and the narrow street and alleys we talked and talked about every thing. She had a wonderful understanding of her country, what she loved and what she wanted to change.
At each stop was a different course and a drink - the food was delicious, except the 'Durian!' - yuk! Again hugs all round when we left- just incredible.
A huge thank you to Rob and Thanh, can't wait for the wedding next year!
I intended to send this from HCMC but Facebook doesn't always work, especially on a Sunday and for some reason the' Go Exploring' sight was not available; however once we arrived in Kuala Lumpur all was fine again. Peculiar indeed!
Really like KL.
I have to go as I'm packing for Delhi.
Take care - hope the weather is continuing to improve - I have to say that there are days where we have to get out of the midday sun for a few hours!!
Thank you for all your comments, please keep them coming as it is lovely to hear from you . Love to you all.