Driving through Italy has always been an ambition of ours. While Autumn descends on the rest of Europe, it has always seemed apppealing to follow the clear blue sky and the heat of the sun, for as long as possible.
While planning the trip we then had the additional bonus that close friends wanted to be involved in our 'Italian Adventure', and to be honest September is just a social event, where we can all spend quality time together.
We arrived into Italy through the Frejus tunnel, an amazing feat of engineering and 14 kms long. I'm not sure of the options and the time it would take, but fellow travellers, be warned, if you are ever travelling this way, there is a toll, the cost of which is not advertised. Having completed the 'experience', we were quite shocked to discover that the toll was 43 Euros! Both Jeff and I just repeated '43 euros' in a raised voice. It didn't change the total. There was a short period of stunned silence and then we played Pavoritti.
Our first night in Italy was spent high up in a small B+B Alla Bastilla in Borga Bastilla, near Susa and the Aosta Valley. This is an Alpine valley which with its tributary valleys includes the Italian slopes of Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa, Gran Paradiso and the Matterhorn; its highest peak is Mont Blanc. Clearly our accomodation would not be that accessible in winter. Vast log piles everywhere, allotments all over flowing with a harvest of vegetables and fruit - ready to pick and store in the months ahead. There was such a friendly community feel. Our hosts, Alberte and Michaela spoke little english but made us and a french couple feel very, very welcome. It was quirky and I loved the aura of this place. An evening where, we overcame the language barriers. We drunk wine and discussed, almost everything, from our country to the state of the world. Just Fantastic!
So many people had said that the Lakes were a must, so we factored in a couple of nights stopover - I know, you can spend a whole holiday there, but we have a schedule. Our visit to Lake Orta was even better than we could have imagined and is an absolute 'must' to put on the list. Orta San Giulo is so quaint and full of character, it's like something out of a film set. It's full of shops, bars, suntanned Italians eating well in the gourmet restaurants. The lake provides the most picturesque views, as it shimmers and glistens, luring those who love watersports or those who just love their bodies and want to soak up the rays or take a dip.
Later in the afternoon, we fell upon a wine festival in Pettenasco, where live music played. We were embraced by the community, who spoke in Italian and were just happy that we appreciated ther delicious wines.

On our final day at the lakes we did a whistle stop tour of Lake Maggiore. Actually, it's too big , so we travelled as far as Stresa and meandered back via Lesa and Meina, where along the side of the lake, quality fish restaurants can be found, full of well dressed Italians. A very lovely place to be.
Our final destination in the south is Puglia and our deadline is 1st October; although we have a set route, it's easy to be swayed or lured by historic buildings, churches( of every size), bridges, Duomos, Campaniles, Piazzas, Basilicas, artwork, frescos, statues or a town resting on a hilltop. We realise that to get to the South many miles need to travelled, but we are complying a list of where we could come for a week or two - to be honest we are spoilt for choice.
After the Lakes we travelled to Verona, to Venice, to Bologna, to Maronello, to Cortona. These have been short visits, mostly a couple of nights, just enough time to get a feel for the place, see the sights , to look around, to ask and discover good places to eat.
Verona, it didn't disappoint - another must on the list. Romeo and Juilet,( Casa di Giuletta), the architecture, the Arena -the place oozing with appeal and the of the best dressed woman I have ever seen.
Venice - it was our second visit and didn't disappoint. We stayed in Treviso (very lovely, but closed between 12.30 and 3.30pm) and took the train to Venice station. There is something quite special about arriving and walking through the exits onto the canals and sight of Venice. We walked for miles, pass the queues, the tours and the chaos surrounding St Mark's Square. We got lost a few times, took hundreds of photos, went into so many beautiful buildings and just adored every moment.
It rained the day we travelled to Bologna, but we did stop at Chioggia, a fishing village south of Venice- we only stayed for a short time and although it was not the best day, we would return, it had a great atmoshere.
Onto Bologna, a city so beautiful, I mean absolutely stunning. Jeff had been to Bologna on business a few times and wanted me to see it. I totally fell in love with the place - the red brick architecture, the vibe, the shops, food, the gelato, famous food shops, that sell every type of sausage and variety of cheese. The two quirky towers ,Torri degli Asineli e Garisenda, stand at very different angles in the centre of town. It has to be on the list - where ever you walk you see beauty, the frescos and the art work, are everywhere and you don't have to pay. Just as we were leaving we watched a rehearsal of a jazz concert which was sensational.
I'll leave Jeff to expand on this, but on route to Cortona, we stopped at the Ferrari Museum in Maronella - whether you like cars or not, it was well worth a visit, so beautiful. Another treat was cycling around F1 track at Monza, before we got to Verona.
The Italian road system is interesting to say the least. It is the first time that we have had a 'built in' SAT NAV system in the car while driving through Europe. Over the years my map skills and nativigating have 'usually, with the few exceptions, reliably taken us to our destination. In Argentina, Australia and in New Zealand, we discussed the route and then arrived. So I can honestly say that there has been an adjustment time to having 'Iris' in the car, named in memory of Jeff's receptionist, who was calm and had the most reassuring, wonderful voice.
At first, it was like having another 'woman' in the car, who was now part of our relationship and 'bewitched ' Jeff into following her every word. I would be wrong if I didn't say that there have been a few abrupt words spoken since 'Iris' has been involved. Curt responses such as, 'Well Iris said it was down here- I think we need to follow her!'
As always the novelty wears off when we have discovered that 'Iris' is not aware and clearly not updated on new roads. As a result, we have ourselves being sent on quite ridiculous 'short cuts' - two grown adults being led down a steep stoney track was not one of our or 'Iris' finest hours. I'm hoping you are smiling when you read this and recall a similiar situation you have found yourselves in??
As a consequence, we have learned to 'switch' Iris off when she doesn't seem to follow a logically route or appears to be 'flying over' a field that is now a Autostrada and telling you to do 'a U turn now!!' Ha! Ha!
Travelling through Italy in Autumn, is a treat. It's our second this year!. What a harvest there is - seeing the blackened sunflowers still standing under the blue skies, huge vineyards heavily laden with dark red grapes - almost ready to cut. Fresh Porchini mushrooms being sold on the road side, the trees full of Pomegranates, fields full of gourds of every kind, beans ........ the list goes on and on. Besides the odd day of cloud and rain, the sky has been clear and the temperature by mid morning , is just perfect.
As we have travelled through Italy we realise that like quite a few British, they only like to communicate in their own language and few speak English. Yet there is something about listening to the rhythm of the language that just makes you feel rather good. If any one has time, listen to Michael McIntyre's clip on 'Italians on the beach sketch,' and you will know what I mean.
We are currently in Cortona, spending a week with Kate and Martin and Janice and Andrew - details of which will follow in the next blog - coming soon!!
I hope all is well in your world and hope you are enjoying Autumn. Love to you all.