An over-night at Laha Datu, noted in L.Planet for its fishermen who fear for their lives on a daily basis due to piracy was not much fun! We do now however have little regard now for LPlanet so with this in mind, we opted to take ourselves out for a stroll at dinner time. Hmmm.If you can believe that places can have good and bad vibes, this was the latter. Apart from the fact that it stank and was utterly filthy, it just felt very uncomfortable. Also, we could not find anywhere to eat that didn't reek, so headed back to our asylum looking hotel for a meal where we were stared at the whole time by the very bored staff (we were the only restaurant patrons!). Bye bye Laha Datu!

A rather snazzy looking 4WD took us on our 2.5 - 3.5 hours drive the following morning into Danum valley. Told by our guide Yoktan that the time variation was because we may have to pull over lots for the logging trucks, plus the fact that the road was hellish, we braced ourselves, yet felt smug to be in a lovely car! Well- of all the journeys Owen has now done, the comfy looking car was the one that he threw-up all over. Poor O - poor car owner!

The amount of logging trucks on the road was staggering. We estimated that 100 huge trees, large enough to require double lorries passed us in our time on the road. Our guide told us that the logging was actually carried out a long way away and great strides were being taken to replant and promote heli-logging. We hoped this was true.

This particular drive, unlike the last at Tabin reserve saw the back of the palm plantations at the main road, yet a similar sad feeling came over us on this trip. The actual primary rainforest in Danum valley is 100% protected. Yet, it seems the secondary rainforest we were driving through, equally as important for wildlife, plants and CO2 only still existed at the whim of the logging companies.

Set on the bend of a crystal clear lazy river with the backdrop of a 100 metre rainforest-clad cliff, the actual lodge was gorgeous. It had just been refurbished and it looked like one very talented designer had had a field day! Borneo will be responsible for us coming home early as we've blown the budget here!!

Yoktan took us on an easy trail first owing to poor Os delicate state post car trip and it would seem the gods smiled on his predicament as within 200 metres of the lodge was a wild orangutan. 'King' as the local WWF researchers have named this huge male was building his nest for the night a few metres up so we had a clear and close view. Nest completed he lay down for a snooze, just like many humans do, with his hands under his head! It was a precious and wonderful moment!A fabulous start to our three days here.

A family of red-leaf monkeys pranced in the trees for us on the way back and some Gibbonsplayed in the trees across the river from lunch. A night drive showed little activity in comparison to Tabin reserve, however the sighting of a Tarsier, notoriously hard to see proved 'quality, not quantity!

A 6am walk the following day to Danums pride and joy, a 300 metre walkway through the rainforest canopy. As no more than 30 people were at the lodge, you always felt that you had the place nigh on to yourself, and we did have the walkway to ourselves. Misty treetops and the smell of wild lilies - and not too shaky walkways!

On the way back, H and O lagged behind a little, and thank god. J was abruptly stopped in his tracks by Yoktan as a king cobra, not a metre from them, reared up, flashed its fangs and thank god took off into the jungle! Being a typical hardy guide, Yoktan was rather excited about this ' my first cobra this year, you are so lucky, cobra here, viper in tabin - two of Borneos most venomous snakes'. Hmm, not sure we are quite so keen of this form of luck?

A late breakfast and off on our second walk - H and O stopped at a waterfall where the fish, if you can bear it, nibble away dead skin on your body - having sampled this fish spa remedy in Kuala Lumpar and found it utterly disgusting, H still did not like it!

J and Yoktan headed off up a rather steep walk to a viewpoint…This really was a steep walk and J soon discovered what happens when you haven't been to the gym for 3 months!! On the way to the summit lay a site sacred to the local ethnic tribe where 1000 year- old coffins were on view - the logic being that the spirit was closer to heaven. A few metres higher and the view of the rainforest below was awe inspiring. 48000 hectares of primary rainforest!

Tired J and O took the afternoon off whilst H went off for a trek with Yoktan. Hoping to see another Orangutan sighting seen on this trail earlier, a fast walk (Yoktan really sped up without O in tow, H too proud to say 'slow down') brought us to a group of Orang researchers hiding in the trees following another male - and female ape. What luck.

Up above our heads a shy courtship was taking place and it was magical to watch. The male swang through the trees, trying to catch the females attention. When caught, she visibly preened herself , playing a little hard to get! He would then turn his back on her, have a munch on some leaves, pick off a few ticks and then turn around again. We watched for an hour or so as this relationship unfolded - they must however have got fed up with us as they took themselves off to a higher tree and out of sight!!

Js 'experience' with the Cobra was now famous and H was accosted by guides galore on her way back to show them the very distant pics she had taken of its head in the bushes!!!

J went for a night walk with Yoktan and caught sight of 'King' again - fast asleep in his new nest. These wild Orangs - common as muck!! (tee hee). Also learnt how to tell a stick insect from a dead twig - should come in handy!

We left Danum reserve feeling very lucky to have spent time here and met with truly dedicated conservationists.