18/06/06 Demiliteralized Military Zone-DMZ from 1954-1975 The BenHai river served as the demarcation betweem North and South Vietnam.On either side of the river there was a 5km area and this was known as DMZ line.Ironically as the conflict escalated this area was actually the most militerized zones in the world.In this region, the war was from the air rather than from the land- with massive craters ruining the complexion of anotherwise exceptional landscape. The land wounds of war are still for eyeballing today although much covered with vegetation.Some have been utilised for water carriers. So many innocent civilians were killed here - and there are cemeteries full to bursting around the areas. The idea of partitioning Vietnam was the idea of USA,UK & USSR.For logical & political reasons the Allies decided that the Japanese occupied forces to the South of the DMZ woudl surrender to the British whilst those to the North would surrender to the Chinese.An armitice was agreed. During the American War(The Vietnamese do not call it the Vietnam War -due to fact that there have been so many ie: Chinese War, Cambodian War,French War-)the bloodiest battles were fought- among them Hamburger Hill- I must see the movie again- we were not permitted to visit due to military reasons. Another sad thing to note is that even today, since 1975- 5,000 people have been injured or killed around this zone due to unexploded mines. Can you imagine ? VINH MOC TUNNELS: These tunnels are in themselves a monument to the determination and guts of the North Vietnamese people to survive & triumph- at all costs despite terrible consequences and sacrifices.There are 2.8km of tunnels and unlike the Cu Chi Tunnesl these have been undadulterated. Slightly larger than Cu Chi Tunnels- due to fact that people actually lived in Vin Mo tunnels -I even managed to spend 20 minutes walking through them. Believe me- it took a considerable amount of mind over matter - to arrest the panic attacks I suffer from in closed spaces.(I think it stems from the time Piggy on Shear terror put me into the chest freezer head first and locked the freezer!) In 1966 the USA started bombing Vinh Moc-the villagers could not withstand the bombardment,so either fled or began hand clearing the tunnels for a place to hide. Of course the Viet Cong found this extremely useful and encouraged the villagers to stay -18months of work and the tunnels included hospital -17 babies born-eating areas,family rooms, sleeping quarters, communication hall,kitchen and sanitory facilities. Although bombed repeatedly they remained mainly intact.A remarkabel architectural feat - surprisingly cool thanks to the ventilation holes- A sobering day - Many people I have met travelling make a point of NOT visiting or reading anything about the war- they have no interest or desire to know the history. Hey fair enough, but I believe it is important to know the "history of hell" as it makes you realise why the Vietnamese are the way they are- strong,hardworking,kind,willful,downright cheeky,resourceful,mysterious,brainwashed and mostly wanting to make a better life for themselves.They have my respect . There is no question that the newpapers /magazines are carefully written- only glorifying all that is National- to the outside world-stating it is a progressive country blah blah -which indeed it is- but it is a steady constant indoctrination by the Government. TV channels do the "same same but different" This is the most heard phrase whilst inVietnam along with -"Madam,moto bak,cyclo, cheap cheap posst cad!" Anyway I will jot down some hanoi antics in next journal