Esquel and Trevelin continued... hoping the computer doesn`t crash this time!

I spent a total of 2 weeks in the area, a week staying at Planeta Hostel in Esquel followed by a week at Casa Verde in Trevelin. Both very homely hostels, where a warm welcome was received and an added touch... of a welsh speaking owner at Casa Verde! Casa Verde being a log cabin type hostel and must be one of the best hostels I have stayed in so far. Set on a hill overlooking the town and mountains across the valley, with a large lawn, hammock and the neighbours hens and little chicks taking a wander around. However, they did have one snag... and thats related to the fowl I just mentioned.... unfortunately there was a cockerel next door too.... an unwanted alarm clock! But then, without the cockerel, I wouldnt get to see cute little chicks and it was Easter at this time too!

Welsh Patagonia

As mentioned previously, I got to meet a number of welsh speaking patagonians. All of whom were very warm and welcoming and in particular Alwen Green who took me on a tour of her family home and told me the history of the Greens in Patagonia. I was ´taken to the shed which her father built in order to produce wooden furniture and wood for building buildings, the electricity supply that they had to produce in order to assist them and the method of making a wooden post for fencing. In Argentina, they drill holes in the post and place the wire through it, whilst I explained, back in Wales we use ´staples´... hammer the wire to the post! Alwen also took me to the family graveyard set on the family´s land on the outskirts of Trevelin. An interesting insight into how the Welsh had to start from scratch and be a jack of all trades in order to survive and live in Patagonia!

Another welsh speaking Patagonian I met was Vincente Evans, now well known in Wales, as he visited Wales for the first time last year at the age of 82 (plus a documentary had been done of him in Patagonia some years ago)! Whilst I was in the area, a documentary was on tv back in Wales about his visit to Wales. My uncle however had met Vincente in 2003, when he went to Patagonia on a tour. He gave Vincente a gift of a Welsh coracle and yes Vincente had it displayed and remebered the visit, especially as my uncle had met him in Wales last year too. So a picture was had of Vincente, his wife, the coracle and myself.

Welsh in Patagonia

Apart from meeting the native welsh patagonians, I also met welsh people from Wales who were either visiting or working in the area. Clare Whitehouse has lived in Trevelin for 5 years and I can understand the attraction to live there, especially when Eluned and myself were treated to an asado (BBQ) at her home. A beautiful log house, set amongst a few acres, on a hillside overlooking the town. Horses would graze freely around the house and the mountains set in the background, whilst the river Percy ran at the valley floor below. An idyllic home and location!

Eluned is also from Wales and had been in the area for about a month when I arrived. Eluned will be teaching and working for Menter Patagonia until December. I spent some time with Eluned, attending welsh classes, after school club and the community events she planned. It was great to get invovled, whether it be helping with making chocolate crispy cakes or hiding the easter eggs for the easter egg hunt, as well as being Simon Cowell for the night..well not quite!

I also came across those travelling in the area. In particular I met Maerlys and Cardi randomly when I overheard one say to the other ´s`dim newid da fi`, when outside a shop in a remote village whilst on a trip on the Old Patagonian Express - La Trochita! I met them a few times after, including at the Eisteddof Dwl. It turns out they are both native Cardis, but have lived in Cardiff for most of their lives!

Emyr was another Welsh speaking guy I met, who stayed at Casa Verde... and I must remember to pass on a message to him... that I did succeed in completing the 2 wooden puzzles that were in the lounge! I have photographic evidence to prove it!

Trevelin Fair

A 4-day fair coincided with my stay in Trevelin. The local leisure centre housed craft and food stalls, including additional stalls outside, along with a feather and fur competition. There would be entertainment in the evenings also, either at the town hall or outside the leisure centre. I popped along one evening to the Hall, where young people performed traditional dances... a folk dance as well as the tango.

One afternoon, I intended to take a flight over Trevelin, given during the period of the Fair, there was a special cheap rate to do so. The aerodrome is just outside the village, about half hour walk from the hostel. But when I got there, I found out that they were not flying that day. Ah well... but it was a nice day and I spotted a few people walking, out of town and thought maybe I´d head in that direction too. I also noticed a number of vehicles heading up a road along the route. As I continued I could hear some music..... so I decided to follow the music...

Horseshow

I followed the music and got very close to it, when I could see a number of vehicles were parked in a field, whilst more cars and people were heading to this field. I could see some kind of stand and was intrigued, so went in that direction.

Well... what a treat! It was a horseshow.... but not like any I have seen before. It was full of locals and I was the only gringo, bar a couple of people that looked like tourists. Most people were of indian origian and a lot of men were dressed up for the occasion... gaucho style! There were a few stalls at the show, as well as a Bar, food stands and there was also another competition taking place. In amongst the wooded area, men were playing the traditional game... that kind of looked like quoits. They were playing for money, so they would throw white disks into the centre to denote what they were playing for. The aim of the game was to throw an oddly shaped piece of metal to the other side, across the line and into the muddy circle. A win was claimed when the piece of metal fell the right way up!

After a wander around and having met Jorge, an Argentinan who was also staying at Casa Verde... we went to watch the show. It started with a parade, of men on horses. I believe they also sang the national anthem, before the ´rodeo´began.

I had no idea what was going to happen... but I was watching a type of rodeo.... an art of taming wild horses, but this was a competition about how long a gaucho could stay on a wild horse! I was mesmerised for hours. Young lads and not so young men were taking part. Often falling off within seconds, but a fair few managed to hold on and jump on another horse. Basically, there were 2 other riders in the ring and after the bell would sound, the gaucho had to make it onto one of those horses, with the help of that rider!

I am sure most of the guys would be black and blue the following day. One or two seemed to have a bad fall, but all walked off relatively unharmed. One however, whom I caputred well on my camera.... ended up being thrown off the horse and into the fence! He lay still on the ground for a while. Men soon ran to him and there was a call for the ambulance which was on stand by. But, thankfully, he got up with only a graze to his forehead. I know this, as I then met him and had a picture with him. I showed him the photos of him in action, prior to the fall and Jorge organised that he was to get copies of my photos!

Parque Los Alerces

I took a trip one day to the local national park. By taxi and had the kindest taxi driver, who told the park officials I was from Buenos Aires, so that I payed the Argentinan rate for the park and not the non-local rate! Nearly all tourist attractions in south america have more than one rate, the main rates being - the rate for people of the country and a rate for those not residing in the country! The latter is usually 5 times and a lot more than the local rate! The driver did tell me I was not to speak... eventhough I practised my Óla´with him he said ´no hables´!

I had a lovely walk at the park along one of the lakes. On my return to the spot the taxi was to pick me up, I wasnt able to actually phone him! I was told to call him when ready, but the phones didnt work or there was just no answer at the taxi rank! A few calls and texts later, I manage to get hold of Valeria in Casa Verde who arranged for the driver to pick me up (it would be another 30 mins, due to the location). In the meantime, a young couple saw me waiting at the bus stop and offered me a lift, unfortunately, it wasnt in the same direction!

Ziplining or as I say in welsh `Llanw Pants`

At a location near the national park I took to the sport of ziplining, or otherwise known as canopying, foofying slide or the flying fox! I had never done this before though had always wanted to have a go. It seems that just after my trip, it becomes international news, with ziplining becoming a craze in Vancouver following the olympics!

Anyhow, I wasnt too nervous about it. These people know what they are doing and have safety measures in place etc.... At the end of the day, I wasnt jumping out of a plane or running off a cliff! However I guess it didnt help that I didnt know Spanish too well, given most of the instructions and safety advice was in spanish. After talking 90% in spanish I was told about 10% in english, with the assistance of another visitor and the guide. I kind of could make out what was being said anyhow, given the visual instrictions too! However I guess I forgot to ask, how do I stop at the end!

It was on the first line of 5, when I was just half way across, I gained what seemed rapid speed and all of a sudden the huge tree trunk in front seemed to approach very very quickly! At this point I start thinking, how am I to stop, can they stop me along with some very blue words in thought etc.... when I finally came to the tree and came to a halt! There was a piece of wood on the line to act as a break. But by this time, my heart was racing and the welsh term of Llanw Pants was found! I wasnt sure whether I´d manage the rest... but I did and it was fantastic experience!