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Bariloche... aka San Carlos de Bariloche! After a couple of weeks in Welsh Patagonia, I head north 4 hours by bus and arrive in the Lake District and stop in the town (city) of Bariloche.
It was a lovely drive... given the scenery... green and mountainous with the odd glimpse of a snow capped peak! Then, as we approached the Lake District... serene turquoise lakes! Picture postcard type scenery!
I arrived at the bus terminal and decided to be economical and take the local bus to the hostel. To pay about 3 Reias instead of 15 by taxi. However after 30 minutes, I wished I had just got into a taxi... given I forgot to get off at my designated stop and had to walk about 2km back into town to the hostel! I did try asking others on the bus (who didnt speak English), should I just not sit on the bus and wait for it to come back around... but they seemed adamnat I had to get off... and whilst this conversation took place, I had already missed another stop that was closer to town!
So I got off and started walking back into town. The hostel was just on the outer edge, so wasnt that far, just a bit of a walk especially when you are carrying both a backpack and a daypack and it was in the heat of the day! It was a lovely walk, along the lake side and I stopped a couple of times to take some pics. There were others walking on the road too, plus there were some hotels en route, so felt quite safe.
I got to the Irish owned hostel, Pudu and decided to have a pint of Manush to quench my thirst... a locally brewed beer, only served in 8 locations in the town... it was nice too! It was at the hostel, whilst waiting to use the PC... having asked the guy who was sat at the PC... to give me a shout when he had finished... that he asked if I was Welsh. Yes I replied and in the next breath we realised we were both welsh speakers and in that split second I asked, àre you Meuring`... to which the answer was yes! Small world I thought, as I know a young lad from north Wales, called Meurig had been in Trevelin at the same time as me... and I had missed him in Trevelin by 15 minutes (when Meurig was with Eluned at the Fair!).
Whilst in Bariloche I headed for a walk to Llao Llao (taking a bus to the park area). It was only then I realised that the bus I took on the day I had arrived would have taken me quite far, had I not got off as others in the bus told me to do so, as would have been another hour or so before returning to the city!
Llao Llao had a lovely forest area, set alongside mountains and lakes. It is also famous for a 5 start hotel, which we saw at different locations and did look very plush too. On the way back from the walk, I decided to stop off at a point where I could head up mount Campardini (Cerro Campardini... not sure of spelling).
A chair lift takes you to the top of the mountain, where at the top you can see the spectacular views of the lakes, the many little islands dotted amonsgt the lakes and the canvas of mountains against the blue sky. Whilst I had hoped to have stayed at the mountain peak til dark, the chair lift stopped operating at 6pm and whilst I could have walked back down... I didnt fancy doing so in the dark... it being steep too! So after an hour or so, I head back into Bariloche town and decide to check out the sights of this city.
Bariloche is as famous for its chocolate as for its scenery... the lakes and mountains and is an attraction at any time of year. In winter, it is a prime location for winter sports, whilst in the summer you can enjoy hiking, white water rafting and many other outdoor activities.
Though tempted many a time by the chocolate shops and also the ice cream shops... as Argentina seems to sell ice cream in abundance (and they are nice too, especially ice cream at the new shop in Trevelin.... Mascerpone being my favourite!). I have a wander around town and plan to capture sunset down by the lake side.
I pass some wood workers on the Civic square, carving human size scupltures, using mainly a chainsaw. Then pass a man with a St Bernard Dog and Puppy... very cute indeed, but he was charging you for a photo with them... so I cunningly try and take pics from a distance! I proceed towards the Cathedral and take some more snaps and then head towards a pier I see on the lake and make my way to the water´s edge in readiness for sunset.
A couple of fishermen are on this somewhat dilapitated concrete pier and I take a seat on the concrete step of the pier. I am probably there for an hour or so, capturing sun setting, dusk falling and the city lights illuminating. A couple of other tourists also spot my shooting location and join me, but just before that, whilst I am pacing a few steps along the pier, taking a few snaps, I fall badly!
There was a stupid hole on the pier floor and a little chunk of my knee came off with it! I had been so careful about the steps, I failed to spot a hole! It reminded me of the time I fell into a hole back on the farm whilst carrying two buckets full of milk... in the dark! But that time I was unharmed, though had to return to the parlour where I was greeted with a bemused brother seeing half the milk was actually on me and not in the buckets!
The fall at the pier did hurt quite a bit, for a few moments, but I soon got up and continued to take snaps, though then realised I was also bleeding! I just had to laugh... at least the pain was gone and I now just had to stop blood running down my leg, inbetween taking photos of the night sky!
The next day I decided to go horse riding... the leg was better, though I remember hoping I wouldnt fall off and cause more damage to the knee. But off I went and headed on a countryside ride with a few other travellers, including some english girls, who shared a similar story to mine regarding my passport and possessions!
I have been on horseback once before in south america and I recall then feeling a tad nervous... on realising we didnt actually wear helmets! Again, this was the case, but I was more relaxed about it, as knew that the company wouldn´t let anyone on horseback unless they were fairly safe. On saying that, it didnt help that one of the guys who joined us, the one from Licthenstein, recalled he had been to the same ranch before a few weeks back and at the time a girl fell off and broke her arm!
Anyway, we were all safe on horseback, mine was called Rosie, though a little incident in the paddock, before we left made me feel a little edgy... given Rosie bit another horse and caused a little comotion! It was only minor, but I couldn´t help think.... what kind of horse have I got here! Others were a little startled too... the riders, but apart from that the whole experience was relatively incident free!
Rosie turned out to be much liker her rider! Taking things slowly and in her own time... not bothered by those trotting ahead, whilst Rosie always managed to catch up as she would take me on a short cut! Clever horse I thought.... given I didnt want her to start galloping ahead or do something daft... so she remained calm and slow throughout. We headed up hills and through forest and the views were just amazing! It was more country area than lake area and we could see for miles around.
I wasn´t the last to return to the yard mind.... that was a Japanese guy... who I noticed had been a little too confident on the horse... to the point he lost his mobile phone, so he was not part of the group for much of the time, but spent it with one of the guide riders searching for it. On returning to the yard, we had a feast of an asado... yet another in Argentina (the infamous BBQ that only the Argentians know how to!). By the time we finished eating, the Japanese guy returned... with the mobile!
It was at the yard, that I was in conversation with the guy from Litchenstein, the english girls, the 9yr old Ecuadorian girl (who spoke perfect english), that the guy from Litchenstein asked the 9yr old (in spanish)... did she understand me... to which she nodded. So I asked him... do you understand me.... to which he replied... My dad´s girlfriend is from Gloucester and she has a horrible accent too! I could only gasp... as did the english girls... we couldn´t belive what he said or the way he said it! I had to laugh, but was not amused!!!
Later that evening on returning from the horse trek, I head on a bus to San Martin de Los Andes. A small town this time, set on the lake´s edge.
It was still light when the bus set off, but 2 hours in the sun set and it was dark. It was at about the same time, the road went from asphalt to dirt track! The journey would only be about 4 hours or so in total.... but I was a bit startled when the road got very bumpy! I was sat on the left hand side, by the window, so technically, oncoming traffic would pass me on my left. But now and again, in the glow of the moonlight I noticed I was next to a cliff´s edge and at another time, noticed I was alongside a cliff! At these times I would pop my head up and see what road was ahead in the bus´ headlights! Sometimes we were only on a one track road, hence I was near the cliff etc... It was an unnerving experience... not actually being able to see where we were going, but on the other hand it may have been for the better!
At one point, our driver went out to assist a minibus that was at a standstill on what seemed to be a road in development! I don´t know whether the minibus should have been on that road or not, but after a lot of revving and skidding... he soon went off and our driver returned.
I recall noticing the sparkly sky above as we were on our way. The stars were very clear and I noticed a pattern... though didn´t know what it was. I wished I knew something about the stars I thought to myself and wondered what it was I was looking at.
I arrive at San Martin de Los Andes later that evening and stop at my hostel. I was one of 3 staying there that night, and the place was huge! The owner kindly ordered me take away empandas! (A bit like a small cornish pasty) it was a bit too late to go wandering for food in a town I didnt know.
I stayed in the town 2 nights. It was a small town, built for tourism I guess. I took some time out, having a wander around, but also using some time to track where my passport was! I was actually on my own in the hostel the 2nd night. it was quite nice to have a room of my own after spending many nights and weeks sharing a room with others.
My next port of call after spending time at the Lake District would be Mendoza.... wine country! It would also be a place where I would make a decision.......
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