Griff... I know Dan has told you about his 'experiance' but I think he may have exaggerated a little so i'll tell the truth! We had the option to go tubing in Vang Vieng but we decided to kayak to Vientiane instead. Better than any bus journey. We got picked up in a truck and driven for about an hour to a river with 4 Italians and 2 French guys (didn't like being the only girl!) but it was OK. One of the Italians looked just like you Nicky! We got to the river and were given a quick guide on how to paddle and were thrown into the water equipped with spacy helmet and lifejacket. Dan opted to go at the back just so he could stop paddling without me noticing. The scenery was amazing and it was really peaceful. We went down grade 2-3 rapids and fell out but it was fun- we were doing fine until the boat went sideways and then just tipped. After scrambling back in we carried on, laughing at how typical it was that we were the only ones to fall in!! When the next set of rapids came I was a bit scared but we had a plan to try and keep straight and we would be OK. So in we go and out we come!! Yep- we fell out again! So I'm holding onto the boat looking for Dan and he is off swimming down the river- actually he is being pulled down the river by the current. There was no way I could turn the kayak over by myself so I just held on and watched Dan...... until he got pulled under by a whirlpool. I just saw his helmet disappear!! Funny now- but it was actually really scary, but he is OK. There were 3 instructors with us so they rescued him and he got back in the kayak. He reckons he was fine, but he would say that!! (Plus he will kill me for saying that!) We then stopped for lunch and got to jump off a 10m cliff and swim down the river- wicked. After another hour or so on the water we reached the point where we got off and took a truck into Vientiane. A memorable day....and a lucky one!! So then it was my birthday- hooray more alcohol and chocolate. Dan had been fretting what to do and he kept going off and coming back , but he managed to make it one of my best birthdays yet! He booked us into a really plush hotel for 2 nights- it was amazing!! We lived like the elite for 2 days swimming in the pool, relaxing in the jacuzzi and steam rooms and ordering room service. It was so fantastic, and a welcome change to dirty sheets and bugs, but we didn't want to leave. I think we spoilt ourselves so much that it is now even harder to come back to reality. Thanks for all your emails and messages too- much appreciated!! I can wait until I get home to get my pressies!! Em & Jae- Dan also wants to say congrats with getting a dog, but he is secretly really gutted that he wont be there to play with him- guess the baby is on hold then?!?