With 2 Asian countries now firmly under our belts, we decided to move north into Thailand.Up to this point communication with locals has been very easy with the majority speaking English - that was all about to change.Out direct bus to Krabi consisted of 4 different mini-vans.I have no idea how we actually made it there considering our tickets remained with our first driver who very thoughtfully left us at the Thai border.Not sure how the whole system works but we counted at least 3 different travel agencies involved and we got passed between them like poker chips.With a night to kill in Krabi before embarking off to the islands the next morning, we hoofed it to the classiest hotel in town and shelled out $17 for the nicest room we've stayed in since paying threefold for a similar room in Kuala Lumpur.After our first Thai meal on Thai soil and a good night's sleep, we found ourselves boarding the 9 am shuttle to the docks at about 10 am - this would become the norm.The 2 hr. ferry ride to Ko Phi Phi was quite pleasant aside from the intermittent rain showers.We hadn't the slightest idea of where we'd be staying on the island so we prepared ourselves for the onslaught of touts awaiting our arrival to sort out accommodation.We hadn't encountered this many screaming touts since our time in South America and it was a bit overwhelming.Plan B was to grab a seat at the beachside bar and wait until they all b*****ed off.This plan was spoiled by the afternoon downpour that seemed to be a daily occurrence here.When the rain subsided, we ventured down a long sandy path and settled on a room clearly out of our budget - the Lonely Planet wasn't kidding when it stated there was no budget options on the island.When the rain clouds gave way to the bright sunshine we went out for a look at where we were - what we saw was awe-inspiring: a large swooping bay with steep limestone cliffs plunging into calm turquoise sea.It really is one of the prettiest places on Earth.As there are no cars or roads on the island, the place had a real slowed down pace to it.We wandered through the maze of stalls selling anything from "authentic" Billabong boardies to Hollister and American Eagle good for as little as a few dollars.

The next day we sought out the cheapest half-day longtail boat tour we could find and settled on one for $10.we headed out to encircle Phi Phi Lehu, the smaller of the islands that make up Ko Phi Phi.We made 3 stops to snorkel off the side of the boat and at each one of them we were surrounded by hundreds of fish darting through brilliantly colored coral.We also stopped for an hour at the beach made famous by the Leonardo DiCaprio movie "The Beach" - Maya Beach.The only difference being that when we ran out through the lush jungle of palm trees to the beach, we didn't see an empty paradise as Leonardo did, we saw about a hundred Asians in Speedos and speedboats embroidered "Phuket Island Jumper" - oh well - it was still cool to be there and fantasize of what it could have been like.It was about this point in the trip that I realized we were sharing our tiny boat with 2 other Pollocks - 1 pure breed and 1 of the Californian variety - go figure.

After nights in Ko Phi Phi and having our fill of the night fire shows and banana pancakes, we set off for Koh Phangan off the east coast of Thailand.The never ending travel day went a bit like this: breakfast at our hotel, stroll to the pier, 2 hr. ferry to Krabi, quick snack at terminal, 2 hr. bus ride to middle of nowhere, lunch, 2 hr. bus ride to Don Sak, 3.5 hr. ferry ride to Thong Sala on Koh Phangan, 1 hr. ride in a pickup truck to Bottle Beach.It was on this trip that we were subject to the most demeaning solution to the language barrier as we had sticker slapped on us color coordinated with our final destination so that every time we had a break we could be hoarded onto the proper mode of transportation that had us arriving with the rest of the blue team in Koh Phangan.At the end of an exhausting day, however, we found ourselves in paradise once again.This time we were isolated from the rest of civilization in the confines of Smile Bungalows at the west end of Bottle Beach.$17 got us a deluxe bungalow with ocean view and steep stairs down to our open air bathroom.We could really see how people could just lose themselves here.The following day we met a dozen or so people who have done just that - one guy has been living at Smile for 4 yrs., another for 5 months and so on.We thought we'd give it a shot and committed to spend 3 nights there.Our days were spent lying on a gorgeous stretch of sand surrounded by high jungle peaks and the only noise being the wind rustling the palm leaves.When we weren't soaking up the sun or wading in the crystal blue sea, we were engaging our taste buds with some excellent Thai cuisine enjoyed alternately between the beach's three restaurants and teaching bulls*** pyramid to a group of English and Scottish backpackers.

Grudgingly, we left Smile after three of the most relaxing consecutive days in recent memory but very aware that we were now heading to an even better location where we would celebrate my birthday.A 15 minute longtail boat ride landed us on the private beach of Santhiya Resort and Spa where Jo had sussed out a room for us.Upon our arrival we knew this place was way out of our league and couldn't wait to start reaping the benefits.Our host, Nalong, led us first to the open air library where we sat enjoying our welcome drinks of coconut milk served in coconut shells while listening to traditional Thai music being played by our private musician in the central pagoda.From there we were led to our quarters.Now Jo assures me she arranged for the most meager of accommodations on offer at this brilliant of resorts and upon mention of it being my birthday, Nalong took it upon himself to upgrade us a full 3 tiers of room options to the Ocean View Suite.Now this was truly the lap of luxury.We were led onto our deck overlooking the ocean and beach below and to our hot tub on the lower tier of our deck.We then adjourned inside the master bedroom complete with plasma tv and dvd player.A hallway from the bedroom led us to our sitting room where we could sit and read still with brilliant views through the huge windows.The best part of the suite was definitely the bathroom which was located through double doors from the bedroom - it was an open air bathroom with a fully outdoor shower!You just can't beat showering outdoors in the rain.When we thought we'd seen it all, we headed down to the pool area.4 different levels of pools all connected via large waterfalls and the bottom most pool would just swallow our little house from Anchor Drive.Many an hour were spent relaxing in secluded corners of the pool grounds catching up on reading and suntanning.I was truly being spoiled here.

The morning of my birthday came and I didn't know what to expect.Not even out of bed yet and my first surprise came - a birthday call from my folks back home direct to our room (Jo sneakily sent them our location details and phone number).It's hard not to get homesick over your birthday but that def helped me through.First order of business was breakfast - we haven't seen such a spread since…ever probably.I must've eaten three meals all in one sitting and loved every minute of it.Next we let the food settle by the pool when I see the waiter carrying a tray over towards us - mid-day birthday margaritas! - Once again Jo being very sneaky-sneaky.With an excuse made to go back to the room for a bit, we found a birthday cake sitting waiting for us (when did she have time to arrange all this?).A few pieces of cake enjoyed and some more relaxing before our afternoon massages at the resort's spa.We hadn't had a massage since our time in Guatemala and I was really looking forward to it.We arranged for a private room with two massage tables side by side.After picking out the aromas of the oils to be used we were soon face down on the tables and drooling from our mouths.The Thai really know their massages and after an hour of being rubbed down I could barely stand up as my muscles were pure jell-o.

When it was time for dinner, I was under the impression we'd be dining in the main restaurant where there would be a Thai dancing show.We left the room an hour before our reservations to enjoy a few drinks at the bar first.Margaritas were our poison of choice and they had us grinning widely as we strolled along the beach hand in hand.We'd just stop by the room quickly on the way to the restaurant - what I found was the sweetest surprise of my life.A red carpet had literally been rolled out to our private dining experience Jo had arranged to be consumed on our private deck.A butler would attend to our every need and dinner brought to us from the kitchen course by course.Every detail was accounted for with candles gracing every fence post and Thai umbrellas backlit by candles.It was just perfect, from the Thai appetizers, the seafood selections mains to the mango mousse dessert complemented by a bottle of Chardonnay - so romantic.I just couldn't have asked for a better finish to the perfect birthday.

With a late checkout granted the following day we were able to prolong our stay in paradise just a bit longer as we rubbed elbows with holidayers paying 3 times what we were to stay in similar accommodation.Our short visit to southern Thailand has come to an end and our next destination is Chiang Mai in the north.But first we still need a ferry, bus, tuk-tuk, overnight stay, taxi and two flights to reach it…