It's been a strange but enjoyable two weeks travelling around Thailand and Cambodia with Irene. We've gone from dreary rainy days in crazy Bangkok to never ending bus journeys to exploring the majesty that is Angkor Wat to learning the harrowing tales of the Pol Pot regime to kicking back on peaceful secluded beaches.

Since we last posted a blog we had to endure a 12 hr. bus journey from Chiang Mai to Bangkok where we'd be meeting Irene. We'd heard stories of how this bus route was notorious for passengers being gassed through the A/C vents before being relieved of all their possessions. So there were Jo and I covering our faces with our shirts and with our backpacks locked firmly to our seats below us. Every time the bus pulled off the side of the road in the early hours of the morning we thought - this is where we get robbed! As luck would have it, we arrived without incidence or sleep at 5 am near the KhaoSan Road in Bangkok. With about 16 hrs to kill before Irene's flight landed we checked into a descent hotel and slept the morning and afternoon away.

We only had a minor hiccup when picking up Irene at the airport as we were waiting at the wrong arrival gate for a good half hour but we found here none-the-less. After a welcome to Thailand drink at 1 am we called it a first night. First order of business was finding a suitable venue for the girls to have some massaaaages. $5 per hour for a full body oil massage is sure to get anyone in vacation mode. The rest of the morning and afternoon were spent exploring the immediate area before retireing for an afternoon nap. That night Irene treated us to a Happy Belated Birthday dinner at the Banyan Tree Hotel. We knew we were way out of our league when we were greeted by the concierge decked out in a tux and I was asked to trade in my flip flops for a pair of their slip on leather numbers due to their no open toe shoe policy. They took my grubby flip flops away with tongs. We opted to dine in their Thai cuisine restaurant where we sipped cocktails and enjoyed a scrumptious dinner from the 53rd floor overlooking the entire city- can't beat it. After dinner we came down from the clouds and decided to check out a few backpacker bars back in the slums of the Khao San Road. We figured we'd simply hop a taxi back, but taxi rides are never simple in Bangkok. This particular driver refused to turn his meter on and when we told him we wouldn't pay 400 Baht for the ride (it only cost 70 Baht to get there 3 hrs earlier) we were kicked out of the cab on the side of a highway. We had to pull over 4 other taxis before we found one willing to turn on his meter. The bars weren't exactly what we hoped for and after a round of drinks and a bucket of booze (don't ask) and after watching a drunken Englishman vommit all over his table after the last of his many shots in the evening, we decided to end our night while we were still respectable.

Our second day in Bangkok we figured we'd take in some culture. We carefully avoided the tuk-tuk and taxi drivers and caught a boat to our first destination - Wat Bo - home to the famous giant reclining Buddha. It stretches 47 meters from head to toes and was quite a site. We wandered about the temple a bit longer before we thought we should do some shopping. A tuk-tuk promised to take us to the markets downtown for a mere 50 Baht (less than $2). It wasn't until after he first took us to an unknown temple and then to some seedy markets in the ghetto that we realized why it was so cheap. See the tuk-tuk drivers get commission for brunging tourists to these places. We refused to enter these destinations and insisted on being taken to the markets. It was then that we were kicked out of his tuk-tuk while in the ghetto. We weren't having the best of luck with transport in Bangkok.

That night we planned to head to Damnuan Saduak where we would spend the night and rise early to experience the floating markets. All we needed to do was simply hop a taxi for a 10 minute ride to the bus terminal and then board a bus for 2 hrs. "Southern Bus Terminal, please." No problem we were assured and he even agreed to turn the meter on. Ten minutes later I said again just to make sure - "Southern Bus Terminal, right?" "No, no Eastern Bus Terminal" We were heading in exactly the wrong direction. To make matters worse, we were standing in traffic on a bridge at this revelation. After 10 minutes more, he pulled over after the bridge and says, Ï no go there - you need taxi." What's wrong with this place? We then proceeded to cross a 6 lane highway and stand at a taxi stand for 20 minutes waiting for another cab. By this point it's raining and we're now trying to hail a cab on the highway. One finally stops - "Suthern Bus Terminal, please." "No problem." Two minutes later he trns and asks - "Where to?" We're slowly losing our collective will to live here. So two taxis more and an extra $10we finally make it to the right bus station with just enough time to stock up on beers for the long bus journey ahead - we definitely earned those beers. As the only tourists on the local bus we knew it was our stop when the bus driver pulled over and said "Get out."(does that count as being kicked out for the fifth time in one day?)

Morning came quickly and we found ourselves a longtail boat captain to take us around the floating markets. Basically these are just a collection of small canoes that row through canals selling their goods - fresh fruit, spring rolls, coconut pancakes (my favorite), lampshades disguised as hats and of course lots of tacky souvinirs. It was good to get a glimpse of what village life once was like before bus loads of tourists invaded their little village. Two hours on our boat and we were soon on the bus back to Bangkok. Once again the bus dropped us off on the highway rather than a bus station. "Taxi - Khao San Road, please" "100 Baht", "whatever just go." Two minutes later - "Where to?" It was time to leave Bangkok for good.

The bus to Siem Reap in Cambodia was to leave at 7am and have us there by 7 pm. It was off to a poor start when we waited on the curb until 8 am for the bus to arrive. It went smoothly enough from there in a nice comfy bus until just before the border where we stopped for lunch for a half hour. It was here that our visas were processed with a 50% markup - lovely. The border proceeding went rather quickly and then we were told to wait in some travel agency for the next bus. An hour and half went by before we were promised that we'd leave in 20 minutes when a mystery tire was fixed. As we pulled away into Cambodia we knew it would be a long trip - 167 kilometers doesn't sound far until you see the muddy, potholed "road"you need to travel on. That said, this stretch of road was the most interesting and genuine we'd seen thus far. Children swimming naked in mud puddles along side the family cow, kids riding cows bareback down the road, 20 people piled on the back of a homemade truck (nothing more than an engin, drive train and lots of plywood). 4 bumpy, dusty hours later we stopped for dinner right in the midst of a terrential downpour - just get us there already! The story we were given on the final bus leg was that we'd be taken to a nice guesthouse where we should stay. The whole day of long buses and lots of stops and waiting around is a vicious ploy to tire out the passengers so they stay wherever they're dropped off (this is how the bus companies make the bulk of their money - from the commission from the guesthouse). We were having none of it and grabbed our packs and ran off while the other passengers were checking out the crappy guesthouse. We fought off an onslaught of tuk-tuk drivers before giving into one of them and having him take us to our guesthouse of choicefor $1. The strange thing about Cambodia is that all prices are in US dollars - even the ATMs shell out the greenbacks. The only way to ever acquire Cambodian Riel is when change less than $1 is given.

Our first day in Siem Reap was spent in the brand spanking new National Museum. The museum boasts the room of 1000 Buddha statues all created during different eras of the Khmer civilization. The museum was a bit drawn out but did give a bit of a preview and explanation into what we'd see the following day - the temples of Angkor. We arranged for a tuk-tuk as all day transport for us around the temples. 4:50 the following morning we were on our way. In the pre-dawn light we could see the town already awake and things such as a whole pig (dead)riding on the back of a scooter. We arrived along with the entire tourist population of Siem Reap in time to watch the sun rise over Angkor Wat, the most famous of the temples and Cambodia's national symbol featured on their flag. It was quite a sight and definitely worth the early start. After about 100 sunrise photos between us and a bit of a wander through the temple we headed for some breakfast when we spotted a few monkeys along the way. Upon closer inspection we found a group of about 30 of them all running across the lawn and proceeded to climb various parts of the temple and pose for some brilliant photos. When they were scared off by the resident dogs we proceeded to wake up our tuk-tuk driver and have him recommend a good place for breakfast. This guy def earned his $15 from us that day because unlike all the other tuk-tuk drivers we had encountered this guy was spot on taking us directly to the sites we requested without first being dropped off at 6 souvinir stands. We spent the morning exploring Angkor Thom, the Elephant Terraces, Ta Prohm (which was featured in Lara Croft's Tombraider starring Angelina Jolie) and Sras Srang. The only downside to the day was the abundance of children selling their wares - "Bracelets, 3 for 1 dollar"will truly haunt Jo's dreams forever. When the tuk-tuk driver dropped us back at our guesthouse at 2 pm he asked when to pick us up again to take us back - we'd had enough for the day. After a nap we concluded our Siem Reap visit with one hour foot massages - $5 each.

The bus ride to Phnom Penh the following morning was only 6 hrs and had us in our hotel by 2pm. Our first order of business was to visit the S21 Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. This was the site where nearly 9,000 people were interrogated and then killed at the nearby Cheung Ek killing field between 1974-1978. It was a solemn 2 hrs walking through what was formerly a school and seeing rooms and rooms of photos of the slain and depictions of their torturous demise. Also here were the tiny cells in which the prisoners were kept and the actual torture racks and tubs used for drownings. It was all hard to take in but we're definitly glad we went - I for one had no idea that over a quarter of Cambodia's population were killed in places like this over the 4 year period in the 70's. We spent the evening dining along the riverfront hoping to catch a glimpse of Sam Bo, the elephant who strolls down the street during rush hour daily. I guess he doesn't stroll on weekends so we passed the time seeing who can spot the vehicle with the most passengers (I believe the records were 5 on a scooter, 15 in a tuk-tuk, about 12 in a sedan including two in the drivers seat, and upwards of 50 in the back of a truck). The next morning we went out to see the Cheung Ek killing fields about 13 kms southwest of town and it was another solemn viewing. 9,000 bodies have been excavated here out of the roughly 17,000 people buried here. Large holes are left open all over the ground with sign such as 145 bodies buried here - in a plot about 6 ft. by 10 ft. As we walked about the grounds we saw numerous teeth exposed in the ground as well as various pieces of clothing. The centerpiece to the exhibit was a large monument standing in the center containing the skulls of the 9,000 victims excavated here. We were at a loss for words upon entering this monument - the photos say it all. Later that afternoon we boarded a bus headed for the coast to Sihuonakville - we needed some relax time.

4 hrs. later we were greeted by no less than 30 screaming tuk-tuk and moto drivers all fighting over us. They seemed to be unionized here because not a single one of them would take us in his tuk-tuk for less than $6. We picked the quietest one and were taken to Coaster's guesthouse right on Serendipity beach. The plan was to just spend one night there before heading off to an island but after seeing the room we were given we decided to stay longer. We were given the penthouse suite which was a two story affair with the top floor being an open air lounging deck. All I can say about Serendipity beach is that if we had better weather and if it wasn't littered with hundreds of little girls selling bracelets, women selling fruit, crabs, lobster, and leg waxings, and countless criples begging for money, it would be paradise. It's a long stretch of beach dotted with little bars/restaurants that all do a mean bbq baracuda and prawn for dinner and all sell $2 buckets of whiskey and coke. The problem being you can't possibly relax with "You want fruit? - You buy bracelet from me? - Give me money!". We were on the beach long enough, however, with the sun barely breaking through the storm clouds to give Irene and I a very attractive Polish Flag burn - red on the front, white on the back. When we finally woke up to sunshine, we packed up our gear and headed out to Koh Russie (or Bamboo Island) for a night. We arranged for the 1 hr. boat trip and were soon on our way. We arrived on the near desserted island and checked into the newest of the bungalow accommodation just in time for the daily rainstorm. We waited it out in one of the island's two "restaurants". Koh Russie has roughly 30 bungalows on the island and lacks any form of electricity or communication with the rest of the world. The bungalows are wired with fans and a few lights but are only powered by generator between 6:30 and 11 pm. Of the 30 bungalows, we counted 4 that were occupied during our stay there - it is definitely low season here. We passed our two days on the island either laying out on one of the two empty beaches, enjoying island burgers (baracuda and shrimp burger) in the bars, reading while laying in one of the numerous hammocks scattered around, or simply kicking back with a few cocktails on our bungalow decks - it was truly the life. Our one night there was spent playing cards on our deck while consuming a few cocktails - I was the a******. After our two days in paradise it was back to reality. There were a few moments on the boat ride back where we were quietly making our own plans of how we would swim back to shore had our boat capsized - we were close quite a few times. Our final night with the three of us together was spent enjoying yet another fresh seafood bbq on the beach with a few Angkor beers and declining numerous offers to purchase finely crafted crappy bracelets (Irene already had two by this point).

This morning we returned to Phnom Penh from where Irene's long journey home begins. We had one thing left on our to do list and it was to visit a shooting range and take turns shooting AK-47s...apparantly it's the thing to do here. Unfortunately after a long taxi ride (during which we saw a line of 5 trucks each containing 100 females coming from the sewing factories - anyone out there have anything that's "Made in Cambodia"?), we were informed that the shooting range was closed and would not reopen until Monday - sorry Irene. So we headed to the airport instead where we bid farewell to our faithful travel companion. It was good to share some travel time with you Irene, we hope you had as good a time as we did with you.

Our time in Cambodia has been short but sweet and it is worth mentioning here that aside from a few pushy tuk-tuk drivers, the Cambodians have been very kind and friendly and we'd grown very fond of their contagious smiles. Tomorrow we depart this beautiful country as we head to Ho Chi Minh City in southern Vietnam. We hope we'll find the same kindness in the Vietnamese (although we've been forewarned of the contrary). Two more countries left in our grand adventure, we'll treasure every last minute...