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After a 3 hour flight from Darwin I arrived in Bali at the Denpasar Airport 6am local time feeling tired and unsure of what to expect.
I exited the airport where I was hounded by a host of taxi drivers asking where I wanted to go. Being tired I wasn't ready for this barrage nor in the mood but I decided to take them on anyway. Obviously I needed to get to my hotel in Ubud and I'd read it should cost around 200,000RP so when they started at 800,000RP I laughed and walked away. They followed me with a lower price but nowhere near what I was willing to pay. They kept on at me and eventually we agreed on 220,000RP. I felt a little uneasy about the organisation of it all and the language barrier but I had to hope this taxi driver would get me to my hotel.
I thought Ubud wasn't too far from the airport but it turned out to be an hour or so drive and the journey was a real eye opener!! There seem to be no rules whatsoever on the roads.. riding red lights, lane choice irrelevant for where you want to go, continuous overtaking and get this.. families of four on the back of scooters with no helmets on darting in and out of fast traffic!!!!
I could tell we were nearing Ubud with the roads getting smaller, surroundings were greener and more mountainous. Then it began to rain.. not just any old rain, torrential rain! The taxi driver, who to be fair was really friendly, eventually found my accommodation which was situated about 3km out of the town on a quieter road where the rice paddy fields grow. The Guest House Kudos was very nice and the staff were very welcoming. It has six large spacious rooms with traditional Balinese decoration.. I treated myself to a bit of comfort and had a room with two double beds. It was so good to have my own space again after living in hostels for the last 6 months. The family of four did everything possible to make me feel at home and they cooked me a lovely breakfast.
With the rain showing no sign of relenting I relaxed in the room all morning which I needed to do after no sleep for such a long time. I was worried that the weather may continue in this manner throughout my whole stay thus making it a wasted journey so I kept my fingers crossed. I was thinking about what i could do with my time in Ubud so I did some research of the day tours it has to offer as I was thinking about doing one the following day.
The Kintamani Cycling Tour grabbed my attention.. I'd start by having a Balinese breakfast at a restaurant overlooking the active volcano of Mount Batur and it's surrounding lake. Then it's a 45km cycle, mostly down-hill through traditional villages in the countryside before heading back into Ubud for some lunch at a selected restaurant.
I ended up booking the tour for the following day and hoped it would be good weather otherwise it could be cancelled.
The rain eased off around dinner time and it became much brighter. I was still tired but I decided to venture into Ubud town to have a look what was going on so I started to make the 3km walk. As soon as I stepped outside the guest house I was instantly hit with culture shock especially after being in Australia for the past 6 months. I'd have to say it was one of the most intriguing half an hours I've ever had.. women walking around with absolutely all sorts on their heads, one with a massive coffee table on hers! There was scraggy old dogs here, there and everywhere which i tried my best to avoid.. some were asleep in the middle of the road so vehicles had to manoeuvre around them. Children as young as 8 years old were racing around on scooters. Paddy fields, random temples and makeshift homes made up the rest of the scenery on either side of the roads. The poverty they were living in struck me the most on the walk down and I felt like I was invading their territory.
As I drew closer to the town the traffic and noise level increased somewhat. Then I was met with utter chaos as I hit the centre of town.. gridlocked traffic with swarms of scooters swerving in and out of cars and buses making crossing the road an impossible task. Shopkeepers, masseuses and taxi drivers hounded me for business but I had already prepared myself for this.
I wandered around and came across a local football match that was being played on what can only be described as a cow field. With the chaos still going on around me I stood and watched for a while trying to take it all in.. but I was hungry! I had read about a particular cafe with rave reviews so I went about trying to find it. After not too much walking around I found Juice Ja Cafe where I had a chicken curry.. it was lovely, and it was cheap in comparison to everything in England and Australia.
Feeling tired and pretty overwhelmed I decided to head back to the guest house through all the mayhem. I stopped off to draw out some money from an ATM in one of the shops and started walking down the main road................. S#*%!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My heart sank.. I had left my bank card in the ATM so I legged it back dodging the scooters and cars. Pheeeewwwww! My bank card was still in the machine.. sooooo lucky! Of all the places to do such a thing. I breathed a sigh of relief and walked back to the guest house. The rain and clouds had subsided by now and the muggy heat began to hit me.. I had a right sweat on by the time I got back. Thank God for air-con!!
For the rest of the evening I just sat back and relaxed whilst watching tv which was nice to do again. I had a relatively early night as I hadn't slept in 48 hours and I had to be ready for the cycle tour at 8am in the morning.
After some much needed sleep I awoke to hot sunny day. I got myself ready and the tour bus picked me up outside the guest house bang on time. The young chap greeted me and we went on to collect the tour guide and five other passengers.. three American girls and a French couple.
Youman, our tour guide began to explain what was in store for us throughout the day as we started to climb the roads to the restaurant where we'd be having breakfast. Youman's English wasn't great so on occasions it was difficult to understand him.
We stopped off for half an hour at a cocoa plant in the forest where we were shown how they make Balinese coffee and chocolate.. we were given some samples to try between us which were delicious.
We continued with our journey and arrived at the restaurant where we had our breakfast and took in the stunning views over Mount Batur and it's surrounding lake whilst Youman explained it's history.
We were then given a mountain bike and helmet each ready for the descent through the steep hills of Kintamani. The bikes were far from brand new and well in need of a service but we set off in single file hoping our brakes would work properly. It was a very scenic and enjoyable ride passing through the local villages and countless rice paddies but the poverty the locals were living under was there to be seen. We stopped off at a local school where adults were learning to read and write whilst their children roamed the streets.. they were so friendly and happy. I couldn't help but think how fortunate I actually am to lead the life that I have when these people live their lives with next to nothing with no future prospects. The tour really opened my eyes to how little the Balinese people have but yet how happy they all seemed.. I should really appreciate my life alot more!
We rode through other villages which specialised in craft.. families sat outside their homes hand carving all sorts of incredibly detailed statues from the raw materials that surrounded them.
The 45km tour came to an end with us arriving back in the centre of Ubud where we enjoyed a Balinese lunch at a lovely restaurant before saying goodbye to the guide and driver as they dropped me off back at the guest house.
I really enjoyed myself on the tour.. I wish the ride had been a little more strenuous but it was a good way to experience the local culture and sights.
I decided to relax in my room for the rest of the evening so I could sort out my next move having already booked a flight to Singapore on the 2nd July. I ordered Indonesian takeaway to the room which was delicious, then ended up booking a flight to Bangkok on the 5th July. I watched some tv then hit the sack for the night.
I awoke to a hot sunny Friday morning and enjoyed a breakfast at the guest house. I planned to visit the monkey sanctuary and temple in the morning then have a look at what the Royal Palace had to offer in the afternoon but this time I thought I'd join the locals and do it all by scooter.
I rented a scooter out from the guest house for the equivalent of £5.00 and it was mine for the whole day. I was quickly shown how to use the scooter and then I was off on my way. I was fine heading into town on the long stretch of quiet-ish road but then I started getting very wary as I approached the main road which was gridlocked again with scooters flying all over the place. I entered the traffic with lots of caution but then the carnage began! I was very unsteady with everything going on around me.. riding with my feet along the floor for balance scraping my flip flops along the tarmac. I must have looked a right plonker!! I could feel all the locals looking and pointing at me haha. I needed to get off this main road to avoid any more ridicule so I took a chance, closed my eyes and flew across the traffic without indicating into another road.. I made it, and luckily I'd turned down the road where the monkey sanctuary was at. Result! I took it easy down the road wearing my helmet with great aplomb ;) whilst young kids showed me up by flying past on their own scooters. Embarrassing or what?
I breathed a sigh of relief as I parked up the scooter near the sanctuary then strolled in the entrance. I had to be wary of the monkeys too as I'd heard quite a few stories of them scratching people and taking things off them.. they roam around freely along with tourists. It is only a small sanctuary with a temple in it so it was a quick visit but it was pretty cool to see the monkeys up close.
I had a wander around the town, had a bite to eat then jumped on my scooter again. I didn't want any drama's this time but as soon as I set off down a ramp I nearly collided with a parked car and yes.. people saw!! Here we go again I thought. I gathered myself yet again and set about on a mission around the town. I visited the Royal Palace but it wasn't overly interesting and I think I could only look inside if I was wearing traditional clothing.. I was wearing shorts and a vest!
After a while I got some confidence and started enjoying myself on the scooter. I went back to the guest house where I freshened up before jumping back on my super scooter down to the town.. this time I was doing the overtaking!
I'd read rave reviews about a restaurant in the centre of town.. Bollero Resto. I thought I'd treat myself with it being my last night.
I sat in this romantic modern restaurant for an hour and a half on my own being treated like royalty, devouring a 5 course Asian influenced meal.. WOW it was simply awesome!! I've said it quite alot recently but it's definitely up there with the best meals I've ever had!! A large Bintang beer thrown in for good measure and it only cost me the equivalent of £10.00 :)
I left the restaurant having made a few friends with the staff and blasted my way back to the guest house on the scooter. I packed my bags ready for the morning when I'd be getting picked up by the shuttle bus at 9am to take me to the airport for my flight to Singapore at 12.55pm.
I've had a wonderful time in Ubud.. I will never forget it for all sorts of reasons. The people are amazing, friendly and very kind hearted.. just like the family who treated me so well at the Guest House Kudos which I was very grateful for.
Singapore City is next!
xx
- comments
bronya Sounds awsome!