So glad we took Tam's advice and agreed to a 7.30 am pick up this morning...meant less heat and that we were able to well and truly beat the crowds on our 61km drive to the Cu Chi tunnels. The journey was about an hour out of the city, becoming more rural with the realisation that without a driver it would be extremely difficult to find as virtually no signposts or advertising along the narrow country roads.
The underground tunnels, dug by hand by the Vietnamese liberation army and local guerrilla fighters are several floors deep in places and the alleys and branches stretch in a labyrinth of more than 250 kms. They provided communication and supply routes, hospitals, food and weapon storage and living quarters during the intense conflicts of 1960 to 1975. Within the preserved tourist precinct of the Cu Chi you can see the incredibly narrow entries to the tunnels concealed under leaves and undergrowth (and attempt to enter and crawl through!) , various spiked traps used and ventilation system including how they concealed smoke emission from cooking via artificial ant hills. All quite ingenious but impossible to comprehend how they lived in this jungle setting for such and elongated period of time. Over 3 million Vietnamese lost their lives during this conflict. Yet again Tam was incredibly informative, giving us the Vietnamese perspective on the "American War" together with a documentary film at the site.
We were back at our hotel after 1130am. Just enough time to eat and refresh before our next tour pick up. Tam directed us to a coffee shop across the road from our hotel which had a student canteen behind it, part of a university. With the assistance of a local girl, quite excited to help us, we order some chicken, rice and vegetables - cost us VND60,000 for both (less than $4!) And of course our favourite Vietnamese iced coffee to follow!
For our afternoon city tour , "the Story of Saigon" , Tam was still our guide but we were joined by a Korean couple from Melbourne whose daughter lives in Ho Chi Minh City and an English couple from Newcastle in England. The first part involved a 30 minute or so speed boat ride on the Saigon River. An interesting vantage point of the contrasts of this mega-city - the modern high-rise to the slum stilt dwellings on the river banks.
Next stop was the Reunification Palace originally of French colonial design but destroyed and rebuilt in 1962. It was once a symbol of government and residence for Presidents and their families for a short time before the war ended on April 30, 1975 with a tank crashing though the gates. The ornately decorated meeting rooms are now rarely used but we could view what were private quarters, kitchen, entertaining areas as well as bunkers with communication equipment in basement and helicopter pad on the roof.
The War Remnants Museum is probably the most popular site in the city. A replica of a prison once based on Phu Quoc Island (now a resort destination ) was quite graphically portrayed. The three levels of the museum display an abundance of photographic and other memorabilia from this immensely devastating and tragic era. The section relating to Agent Orange and other chemical warfare was particularly dramatic.
The other sites visited, even though we had seen them on our various walking expeditions, were the beautiful Gothic Central Post Office (designed by Gustav Eiffel and only just repainted); the iconic Notre Dame Cathedral built between 1863 and 1880; and the Gothic Opera House completed in 1901. Being part of District 1, this area escaped damage during the war.
Once back at our hotel (after a fond farewell to our beautiful Tam!) there was time for a quick cool off swim and a beer before we met Trish and John who arrived in Ho Chi Minh earlier today. They joined us on the 18th floor for a cocktail to enjoy the view before we headed out for dinner. We found the restaurant that Tam had recommended called Ngon, not too far passed Notre Dame. Was a lovely meal, despite the lack of air conditioning, with great company! They caught a taxi back to their hotel further down on the river, while we had a brief wander then did the same.
So, the curtain is closing on our Vietnam adventure!