More days in Viana do Castelo

Deciding to further explore Cabedelo beach became even more interesting when we followed the boardwalk trail to see how far it would take us. On a day when the sun was hot, but pleasantly cooled by the winds from the Atlantic, we headed south and parallel to the beach, shielded by dunes and pine trees......while up in the sky we could see the brightly coloured kites of the surfers.
When the boardwalk eventually ended at a public beach exit, we saw the entrance of what was some kind of campground - so in we went - and found a huge area of camper-vans & small RVs......obviously this was the temporary home of the dedicated kite-surfers and their families who flock to this area. After walking past their large clubhouse - where I'm sure they swap adventure stories every evening - we followed their (not so) private entrance down to the beach. Turning northwards for our return journey home proved to be a tougher walk.....the wind was much stronger now that we were on the beach and away from the shelter of the dunes - and the blowing sand was as sharp as little needles on our skin.....but, happily, we did make it back to the shelter of a beach café for drinks!
Our first full weekend in Viana do Castelo was spent enjoying long lazy, sunny mornings on our patio. Saturday morning, we breakfasted on some delicious pastries from the corner pastelaria - a crowded place where locals and visitors all come together to buy, eat & enjoy. Our choice on this day - a chocolate croissant & a pastel de nata were both good.....but that egg custard was heavenly!
Later that day, when we headed towards the bridge into town, we saw that with the tide out, a couple of local children were poking around and discovering crabs in the tidal mudflats. There's also a man, who regularly does this too.....he digs many holes, wears boots and is often up to his elbows in mud, but he doesn't seem to find a single crab - unlike the children who, with only one stick between them, always seem to find one to play with! Sights like this are common as we settle into our daily life in Northern Portugal. With walks into town, around the neighbourhood & the beach area, our surroundings are becoming more familiar - and people in the local shops and cafés are beginning to recognize and make us welcome.
Saturday night saw us back at our favourite beach cafe for dinner - arriving just in time to snag an outside table before the line-up started.....although the outside bar/waiting area accommodates that problem very well! With an interesting mix of clientele, we were in a great spot for "people-watching" - from the well dressed to the ones wearing beach attire. Over a relaxing dinner we saw a mixture of individuals, couples and whole families - some arriving on their bikes and some with their dogs - all were welcome!
This area has a great climate of warm days with cool mornings and evenings, so as the sun set, we were offered small blankets to keep the chill off - if needed - something that we declined, deciding to make the leisurely 15 minute walk home and sit out - under the stars, and on our own patio, for a nightcap!
Sunday afternoon was spent with a charming young lady, Maria, who gave us a free walking tour of Viana do Costello. After being away for 5 years at university in Coimbra (a town that we hope to see later this summer), she's now home and working with the city's tourist information office. This educated woman is knowledgeable - not only about her home-town, it's history and architecture - but has great language skills too!
For almost 2 hours, we walked the historical areas, waterfront parks and streets of Viana do Costelo. During this time, Maria kept us interested with stories, historical facts, architectural details, legends and amusing anecdotes.
On the waterfront is a huge structure of a broken chain - symbolizing the end of Salazar's dictatorship. Surrounding this Liberty Square are 3 modern buildings by some of Portugal's leading architects, including Eduardo Souto de Moura & Siza Viera.....apparently a unique occurrence in one area.
In the town's main square - Praça da República - is the huge bronze statue of Caramuru and his wife Paraguassu. This discoverer, Diego Alvarez Correia, nicknamed Caramuru after (a kind of) Neptune, was born in Viana do Castelo and went to Brazil in the 15th century to commercialize the wood trade. This historic square also has the beautiful Chafariz fountain at its centre, and is surrounded by the old Town Hall and the Igreja da Misericórdia (the Mercy church and its hospital). This square does, of course, have a good selection of cafés and shops and is a forum for many musical and cultural events.
This week we also visited two very different historical attractions in town.
The first one was Gil Eannes - a former Portuguese hospital ship, now permanently moored in the harbour. Between 1955 and 1973 this was the flagship of the Portuguese White Fleet that operated in the cod fishing areas off Newfoundland and Greenland. Although the main function was as a hospital ship, it also served as a tug, ice-breaker, mail ship + general support and maritime authority for the Portuguese fishing vessels.
In 1973, after its last trip, the ship was abandoned in the Port of Lisbon - with intentions for it to be demolished for scrap. After a former ambassador to Brazil launched a campaign to the save it, The Gil Eannes Foundation was formed and in 1998 the ship was restored - according to the original features - and brought back to Viana de Costelo, where it was originally built.
After a brief period as a youth hostel, it now serves as an interesting museum, giving impressions of life at sea during the time of its service. Along with cramped cabin quarters, there are recreations of the kitchen, doctor and dentist offices and even the operating room. With engine rooms, radio rooms, etc....there is something of interest fore everyone.
The Museu do Traje (costume and gold museum) that we also visited this week is beautiful. Set in a lovely building off the main square is an interesting display of traditional, regional costumes that were formerly used for agriculture, fishing and collecting seaweed. There's also clothes that were worn when courting and celebrating various festivals. In the basement is a vault containing gold jewellery and on the main floor, a section on how gold jewellery is made.....with particular attention paid to the making of a filgree heart - traditional to Viana.
The red costumes weighed down with gold necklaces, and the hand embroidered skirts and dresses are all displayed over 3 floors.....with the balconied top floor showing the traditional techniques of gathering wool and flax used in the weaving of cloth and the making of linen.
Along with the many historical places that we visited and discussed with our tour guide, Maria, we did learn some amusing facts & she gave us some good advice on various aspects of the town. One very good tip of hers was the reason why there are long line-ups outside the Natàrio Pastelaria.
In business for 50 years, the savvy business owner of this establishment produces the famous Bolas de Berlim (a Portuguese take on the custard-filled doughnut)......but only twice a day at 11.30 a.m. & 4.30 p.m. Reputed to be the best in the country, these treats made from dough rolled in sugar and filled with creamy custard, literally sell out like hot cakes!
The day following our walking tour, we joined a line-up (but close to the front at 4.15) before it snaked out of the building and along the street. Best eaten warm and priced at €1.10 each - no wonder that this tiny bakery/café sells 1,000 of them per day!