Caminha and more Viana

It was only at the end of our travels last summer when we discovered that train travel in Portugal is available at a reduced price for seniors - so this year we decided to start early!
At the beginning of the week we took the train to Caminha for the 1/2 price fare of €1.25 each :) The journey, which was just under 30 minutes from Viana do Castelo, made 4 or 5 stops and followed a scenic route up the coast. The only minor hiccup was trying to find platform 2 for our departure - we were thinking there would be a bridge over the train tracks.....but no - just a walk over, when the tracks were clear!
With its hand painted tiles, some of which are being restored, the train station in Caminha is beautiful.......very well kept, this station was the proud winner of "the best station garden" award back in the 1950's.
A short walk from the train station took us to the Praça Conselheiro Silva Torres - the main square & the heart of this small town. With a fountain at its centre, the square is surrounded by trees and benches and is filled with cafes. The fountain itself was built in the 16th century and was once the main source of drinking water for the town.
This small town lies on the southern side of the river Minho - across from Spain - and is surrounded by rivers, beaches, mountains and forests. Although it's apparently still a bit under the radar as a tourist destination, interest in the area is growing - particularly as a place for a second or summer home......something which we discussed at length with a local artist.
While strolling down one of the narrow, cobbled streets that radiate off the main square, we wandered into the interesting looking store-front of a very old dwelling. We admired the artwork displayed there and talked to the artist who, although primarily living and working in Lisbon, maintains this second property in Caminha. With his gallery and art studio on the ground floor, he showed us his rustic, but charming, living quarters......which are in an open area upstairs. He (philosophically) talked about the future of small places, like Caminha, where the peaceful lifestyle is much admired and coveted.....but he also talked about the consequences of what the influx of more money and increased tourism would bring......something which he himself is a part of.
We visited The Igreja Misericórdia (Mercy church), in the centre of town - it was built in the 16th century as a stopover for pilgrims. This church has an elaborately carved golden alter and side chapels - which are a big contrast to the "barrelled" wooden ceiling.
The Torre do Relógio is probably the town's most significant structure. Once the main tower in the medieval castle, it was incorporated into the city walls and became the "Clock Tower" in the 17th century, when the timepiece was installed. An attractive looking place from the main square - the inside is, unfortunately, quite empty. With just a modern staircase leading up through bare walls, the exit at the top has an unreliable door with no handle on the outside.....which led us to wonder what the result would be if anyone was trapped out there?!
We spent the remainder of our time in Caminha sitting in the square, people watching and enjoying a gelato.....we also wandered around its streets - where, unexpectedly, we did find a convent with a spectacularly large graveyard!
After this lovely, but tiring day (19km walked) we spent the next couple of days closer to home-base, finding that the pace of strolling the beach boardwalks provided enough exercise for a while. Shopping for supplies was done locally - supplemented by the kindness of Maria, the owner of our property, who gave us some home-grown tomatoes + potatoes, fruit & organic eggs. We also sampled quite a few of the lovely pastries from the café/pastry store - at only 5 mins walk away, it's dangerously close!
When we stay "this side of the bridge" the stops at our favourite beach café are daily.
A popular spot, this café has a welcoming and relaxed atmosphere......so while enjoying a drink or snack, we spend some time making observations & speculating on other "regulars."
There seems to be no dress code......some people are smartly dressed, while others are straight off the beach - many in bathing suits or wet-suits....so no shirts or shoes required. Some people linger for long periods of time, while others have a quick espresso and move on. There are a few couples, both young and old - but families make up most of the clientele - primarily Portuguese, with a smattering of French, Dutch and German - but very few from the U.K. or North America.....actually no-one but us, so far!
Unlike most restaurants in our part of the world, dogs are also welcome - they calmly sit under the tables while their owners enjoy café life......they seem to bother no-one. Tolerance and affection for children is likewise displayed......little ones often wander around and go back and forth to other tables - collecting smiles and affectionate pats on their arms and heads - from other patrons and servers alike.
Along the boardwalk, tucked away on a large wooded property we discovered a hotel that has just opened. Offering both hotel rooms and indivual cabins with a living area, this very woodsy, but sophisticated hotel seems to be a more upscale choice of accommodation for relaxing, or for the sports-minded visitors to the area - certainly very different to the large numbers of camper-vans that are also in Cabedelo Beach. We had a look around the minimalistic lobby, bar and restaurant area. Leading from the bar area is a large patio and deck, with uninterrupted views through the pine trees and down to the ocean.....certainly a place we'd like to visit again before we leave!
On Monday, after this relaxing weekend, we were ready to go back to town.....so decided to make the walk up Santa Luzia Hill to the Templo do Sagrado Coração de Jesus (The Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus). Access up the mountain is either by car, restored funicular or a climb up 2km worth of stone steps - we took the steps - which are challenging. After just under 30 mins we reached the top.....and it's well worth the effort - although the day after brought regrets, with more than the usual aches and pains. We decided, however, that the view would be just as spectacular if reached by one of the alternative methods of transportation. We made the return journey down on the funicular, which took 7 minutes!
The Basilca atop this mountain is beautiful, but it is the scenery that really brings people up here. The National Geographic considers it the 3rd most lovely in the world. This gorgeous panorama overlooks a huge area of the Lima valley - with lush, green hills & a large part of the waterfront.....the beaches continue almost endlessly to the north and south.
The sanctuary is dedicated to Santa Luzia and was only completed in 1959. With the architecture inspired by the Roman-Byzantine style - it is a bit "over the top" - but has a lovely painted ceiling and beautiful rose-windows which are the 2nd largest in Europe.
Not yet satisfied with the days quota of steps, we made the final ascent to the roof - first by taking a short elevator ride, followed by an extremely narrow, winding stairwell....adding scraped elbows to our aches and pains.
This upper "look-out" only has space for a few people.....and although we shared it with some boisterous Dutch lads - we did feel closer to heaven up there!