As I'm sure you'd have guessed, the toilets weren't up to much, it was basically a hole that emptied it's contents directly onto the tracks. (British ones do the same by the way, but by using a western style toilet people think that it's somehow sterilized and disposed of properly...it isn't.). it was the sheer amount of people using these facilities that were causing the foul smells. Sometimes, after food had been served and when we were watching India go by, pe...

Morning had broken and yet very little sunlight was getting into this carriage, the windows were tinted and covered in diesel smoke on the outside. All we had were the compartment lights. The design of this carriage wasnt good, there were 2 windows opposite sides of the compartments and they were on about 2 foot by 18 inches, so you werent going to see a lot, and that's why we had decided to go by train, to see India. The elderly couple had also been bumped off t...

Where do I start? After crawling into the bunk below Grant I became aware of the lack of space and air. I was now past the stage of worrying about rats crawling over me or even bothered by the stench of urine, vomit & faeces.....my own little demon right now, which had been festering since getting stuck in that tiny lift back in Amsterdam, was now paying me the old surprise visit. Knock Knock....Who's there? "Why it's only your old mate Claustrophobia and I'l...

Earlier on we'd watch the passenger trains come in and try to find the carriage that we'd be travelling on......and we spotted one, it was totally different from the rest, newish even and with bright lights shining from within. Great, we said....that's us sorted then. As our train pulled in there was some confusion as the carriages werent in the order stated on the message board. So we frantically run up and down trying to find the A! carriage that we're meant to...

It was quite busy when we got into Margao Railway Station, we looked around, there were a few shops selling curries, peanuts, biscuits etc but not a lot to do. We managed to get a seat and then everyone started arriving. And I mean everyone. The Mumbai Express was due in an hour's time and before you knew it, mats were being thrown on the floor and in a matter of 10 minutes we were surrounded by a sea of Sari's. All different colours, it was quite spectacular and...