As I'm sure you'd have guessed, the toilets weren't up to much, it was basically a hole that emptied it's contents directly onto the tracks. (British ones do the same by the way, but by using a western style toilet people think that it's somehow sterilized and disposed of properly...it isn't.).
it was the sheer amount of people using these facilities that were causing the foul smells. Sometimes, after food had been served and when we were watching India go by, people would rush in and start throwing up in there. it got to the point that I wondered if was some sort of ritual. To have your lunch and then go bulimic in the Kazi.

Nana Kumar had been the Head District Nurse of Kerala and her husband had been the CEO of a big company. Funnily enough I hadnt been my usual chatty self on this trip but had spoken enough to find out who was who etc. Another fellow inmate was a Vindeep and who had been an ocean of serenity on this ride and I'd actually taken a lot from him purely by the way he dealt with everything. He was about 28 and returning home for a holiday. He was very polite and kept the elderly couple in kind conversation all the way through this long ride in the daylight hours. Mr. Kumar had bought some vegetable cutlets and they were served in a paper tray, the former Head District Nurse of Kerala then threw the paper tray on the floor with the rest of the rubbish after he'd finished eating. I looked at the tray and it read "Enjoy Gleetex, Number 1 Gentlemans' Underpants" and had a picture of a Bollywood star standing in his Y Fronts. one way I suppose of reaching your core market. Then a clean napkin fell out of my pocket next to Nana Kumar and she was horrified that something so vile could have landed next to her and she went into hen peck mode telling me to get rid of the offending article. Vindeep calmed the situation by telling me to just pick it up and throw it on the floor and this did indeed calm the situation. Mice & Rats would occasionally run past your feet and through the litter.

Grand Train Inspectors would regularly come about in white starched trousers, blue striped shirts with ties and Navy Blazers. They would sit in that bunk that I'd tried to steal in the night and open their briefcases and produce bundles of papers and go about wandering the train ticking boxes. Then they would come back and make sure everything was in triplicate, have a kip and b***** off. What did they do with all those inspection papers? Did they go back to head office, produce everything in triplicate and say to the boss "Sir, you will be pleased to know that the 16345 Delhi to Trivandrum Express is still in an absolute shocking state."