Naples is filthy - there's rubbish everywhere you look. But it has trams! Giving way to pedestrians is clearly a suggestion rather than a rule. For drivers, use of the horn is mandatory. Even as a pedestrian I'm far too polite. And I need to remember that they drive on the right so I don't get taken out by a bus. So far the only men calling me Bella are old and fat.

The hotel restaurant has a Nescafé machine to make coffee. Sigh

Well I'm awake, and I have ankles again. Italy is a long way from Australia. Everywhere is a long way from Australia. This is a trip that I have looked forward to for a number of years. There's something about the idea of Italy that I have always loved. And several years ago someone told me of a singing workshop they did in Sienna that was wonderful - since that moment, I was determined to do this one day. Of course the reality never quite matches our plans....