Today I moved on from Dar to Zanzibar (or technically the island of Unguja) with the first stop being Stone Town. The journey involved a 4 hour ferry from Dar and is accomplished by negotiating the very busy ferry terminal, which is packed with touts, hustlers and the odd genuine passenger. Well prepared, I was able to stride confidently through the throng, almost unhindered, to purchase my ticket. The trip itself was uneventful save for a group of Israeli travellers sporting the most enormous double backpacks (why??) one of whom was even carrying a bow and arrow. The wisdom of my 44 litre backpack struck me again. Although part of Tanzania, there are still border controls for Zanzibar and the border guard was unimpressed by my attempts to circumvent immigration by walking right through the gate. After a brief conversation I saw the error of my ways, completed the forms and flashed my passport.

I stayed at the Princess Salme Inn (named after a princess who eloped with a German merchant) which was most quaint, not least for the heavy policing of guests' breakfast habits. In the absence of large groups of Germans I met an Irish guy called Stephen on the roof terrace and we decided to explore Stone Town. I had read a lot about this town and I wanted to see more. Hungry, we went to the street food market to dine. There were scores of stands each contending that its fish was freshest and that rivals' fish was frozen. We picked our dishes and a local boy agreed to procure beer for us. Zanzibar is a predominantly Muslim place and it was only after ordering that it dawned on us that drinking beer in the street might not be the greatest idea. Looking rather shifty we quaffed our ales quickly without attracting the attention of the religious police. We then headed to "Mercury's Bar" named, of course, after Zanzibar's greatest export - Freddie!

Next morning I was scuba diving with the One Ocean Dive Centre (who are superb). We were taken out past some fishing dhows and some of the closer islands to the dive sites where we did a couple of dives. The sites have great coral reefs and a plentiful supply of fish. Despite having completed a scuba refresher course before setting off travelling I was a little nervous, but soon got back into the swing of things and remembered why I love scuba diving. The first dive was going swimmingly(!) but towards the end of the dive I began to feel ill, such that when the dive master told us to start our 3 minute 5 metre safety stop I shot to the surface to empty my guts into the Indian Ocean. Without going into too much detail it seems that the tandoori lobster I ate at the market the night before had "disagreed" with me somewhat. Without exception, everyone I have recounted this story to has asked me why on Earth I ate tandoori lobster. On reflection it was a poor choice, although I do not recall receiving the "no tandoori before scuba" memo. Undeterred by this mishap I completed the second dive, although I was sick again afterwards.

I met a nice Finnish couple whilst diving and Stephen and I met up with them at the Africa House Hotel to watch the Sun slip out of the sky and into the ocean whilst traditional dhow's sailed past. It made a great picture and when I find an internet cafe that can upload from an SD card I will share it with you. Until then, trust me it is a great sunset. Afterwards the four of us went for dinner at an Indian restaurant with some curious ideas. The menu ran to some 20 pages, but we were advised that only starters and the rather basic fixed menu (one starter and main) were available. Strange business model given it was Saturday night!

Final day in Stone Town so I hit the museums and historical sites to immerse myself in history and culture. I visited the Palace Museum, the House of Wonders (which house the national museum of history and culture) the Omani Fort and the site of the last slave market in Africa (they built an Anglican church on the site to commemorate).

That evening Stephen and I met another Irish guy called James and together we hit the town for beers and food. Stephen was celebrating having passed his open water scuba exams. During the evening we invented the "music festival game" which involves picking 3 headline bands (current or historic) for your imaginary 3 day music festival. Do it and put your suggestions on the blog???

Overall I really enjoyed my 3 days in Stone Town. There were lots of sights and plenty to do, but in my mind I had expected more given the hype that surrounds it. That said I am looking forward to my extra 2 days there at the end of November.