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Night location: Helsinki, Finland
The city of Helsinki feels a bit like Melbourne: the extensive tram network allows for easy above-ground transportation; trendy cafes with designer furniture offer speciality coffee and an array of sweet or savoury baked goods; and there are shops to cater for every possible need or want to suit any budget. In addition to all of this however, Helsinki also offers an incredible sea fortress that makes for an excellent day excursion!
Situated across six islands off the coast of Helsinki, Suomenlinna is a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to it being an outstanding monument to military architecture. Construction of the sea fortress started in 1748 when Finland was still a part of the Kingdom of Sweden. It was used as a naval base in 1788 in the Finnish War (against Russia) and in 1808, the fortress was ultimately surrendered to the Russian army who also used it as a naval base. In 1917, Finland declared itself independent from Russia so in WWII the fortress served as a coastal artillery, anti-aircraft and submarine base. The irregularly shaped bastion fortress has a unique history therefore as it served for the defence of three different realms.
We caught the 9am ferry across to the fortress and arrived with only a small number of other people, most of whom appeared to actually work in the cafes, museums or shops in Suomenlinna. Following the signs to King's Gate we walked the 1.5 kilometre 'blue route' that took us past the key sights including the 19th Century Russian Orthodox Church that was later converted into a Lutheran place of worship with an operational lighthouse in its steeple. The trees are putting on an autumnal show at the moment so the walk was worth doing with or without the bastions!
Crossing a bridge spanning Artillery Bay we explored the tunnels in the inner ring of bastions on Susisaari Island. Amber led the way with her phone torch up a winding stone staircase that alarmingly finished with a bolted wooden door covered in spider webs.
After emerging safely we continued on to Kustaanmiekka bastion which included the original part of the Swedish fortress and also the late 19th century Russian defence line complete with sand embankments and artillery points. We climbed up to the top of the embankment and battled the strong wind which Edith did not approve of and watched as a large ferry cruised through a really narrow gap between the islands on its way to the main port of Helsinki.
Amber, Gareth and Edith explored some more tunnels, one of which was so dark they couldn't see more than a meter in front of them with the phone light directed to their feet! At the start of the long tunnel they were entirely unsure of both where it led and also if it was going to be a dead end. Happily, it was not a locked door or a bricked up exit, however the drop at the end was larger than they would have hoped for!
Having reached King's Gate, completed in 1754, we returned to the main quay and enjoyed some delicious Kaffa Roastery coffee which is one of Finland's biggest roasteries before catching a return ferry back to the mainland. Interestingly, the boat arriving at 11:40 was standing room only so we were really glad that we had arrived before the crowds as we had been able to explore the fortress without seeing many other people.
From the port, we caught a tram up to Temppeliaukio Church which was opened in 1969 and is carved into the bedrock. Light flooded the church through the narrow skylights between the rock and the copper ceiling dome. The acoustics in this church are fantastic and we were fortunate to hear part of a piano recital that included a vocal component.
Outside, Edith was delighted when she went for her very first swing in the playground. She laughed and squealed as Gareth pushed her higher and higher while Gemma became increasingly nervous! We then walked up and over the rocks that the church was built under before returning to the city centre.
In the esteemed Aegean Air magazine article, Amber read about the Kamppi Chapel or The Chapel of Silence, which is non-denominational and intended as a place for peaceful contemplation. We entered the creatively designed building and admired the curved alder wood internal walls while seated on small wooden pews. It was a truly innovative space which offered respite for locals and travellers alike.
From here our group separated for the afternoon as we explored the design district at our own pace. Gemma and Gareth visited two churches and the Design Museum while Amber and David enjoyed pastries in a lovely park and wandered the shopping streets of the city.
- comments
Althea Halliday What a delight for you to be in this beautiful place, so traveller-friendly in every way: culinary delights, autumnal beauty, history. The story of the fortress was fascinating, and I was not surprised by your intrepid exploration by torchlight. Seeing Edith on the swing, giggling and hanging on, with her Uncle David flying far and high beside her was extra special.