Up north. Accessible only by boat we visited the local villages where there is no electricity and no phones, just plenty of chickens and other farm animals. It was great. We stayed up here for five days. During which we went on a two day trek further into the hill country. This was a challenging walk given the high temperatures and humidity, walking through rivers and jungle, and up seemingly verticle hills. Fortunately we had a great group to travel with for the trek and for our last remaining days here. Once we reached our destination for the night, we were greeted with many offers of lao lao (local antiseptic or liquor) that was used for all occasions in their daily lives at any excuse. It was a very basic village complete with two showers for everyone (they were bamboo shoots diverting a stream of water from the mountain river). A great night's sleep with dogs, chickens and cows making a racket all night lead to another days walk. Upon arrival back at our "home" village, we participated in a spit roast pig feast. It was truly like something out of Lord of the Flies complete with the choosing of the pig and its slaughter. There were some rather disturbing travellors who thought it was good for them to participate in such an event and fairly immature about it all. Nevertheless, it was a good feast. Although Flavia now wants to become a vegatarian- if only they made burgers that good out of tofu! After spending a few wonderful days out in the sticks where we were treated to some amazing thunderstorms and showers (forked lightening and torrential rain), friendliness of the locals, many many card games/beer lao, we reluctantly boarded our overcrowded boat down the river. Whilst we were taking on water through the gunnels, the pump managed to keep the boat on even ballast and things going well until the wave came over the side of the boat as we passed through a rapid. It made for a refreshing shower for Mike's side of the boat. Now back to Luang Prabang, we swapped roles and Flavia became sick with a cold (although initially diagnosed as bird flu by local hypocondriacs!). Fortunately a good bit of rest and all is now well. Flavia is preparing to go shopping in the night markets and we are both looking forward to moving on to Australia after another visit through Bangkok. Have loved South East Asia, but we're both looking forward to having a proper bath and a few other modern luxuries!