Yet another interminably long, bumpy overnight bus down the Pan American. We arrived in Vilcabamba very early in the morning. It was so chilled and relaxed that everything was shut including the hostal we were supposed to be staying in. Whilst there was some activity in the kitchen it would have been easier getting blood out of stone than a cup of coffee. Given it was German owned not quite sure what happened to that German efficiency.

Eventually after being fortified by breakfast we headed out on one of the tramps from the hostal. After a few false starts we found the tramp. It took us through a beautiful valley dotted with rustic houses and clumps of beautiful flowers, trees and plants. The trail sorted of ended or my map reading skills totally deserted me and we ended up clambering down the side of a hill towards the river - I seem to have ended up having to do this many times! Somehow we picked up the trail again but by this time we were all knackered. We stumbled across Madre Tierra an upmarket, swanky eco-sort of place. Although very much out of our price range to stay there we felt we could at least stretch to lunch and for me a beer of course.

Met the owner who greeted us as her new best friends - love that American reserve. Whilst she may be an eco-warrior she clearly had a head for business and managed to mug us into signing up for treatments in the spa for the following day. We also met her husband a former star of Hill Street Blues whose name now escapes me but he was the staightlaced one with glasses. Answers on a postcard to anyone that can remember his name!

Later that day we had a nice swim in the pool, dinner and a few games of table tennis where I got soundly beaten by Scotty. I blame it on the red wine myself not the lack of technique!

Up early the next day ostensibly to go horse back riding but we were slightly delayed given the rain. Eventually it cleared up and we headed out of town. We had a great time. The horses were very feisty and with only a slight prod they cantered along at breack neck speed although mine and Scotty's horses clearly hated each other and Scotty in particular was nearly unseated a couple of times. My horse just wanted to get in front and then when it got there it refused to budge to let anyone pass without a nip or a kick at the other horses. It was a great few hours particularly crossing the river and then heading up the side of a mountain, literally. It was a lot of fun.

Returned to the spa for our treatments and I soaked in the jacuzzi with the ever expanding bubbles to soak my aching muscles - if you don't believe me check out the pictures. You can just about make me out! My treatment wasn't quite what I expected. I was expecting a massage and then for mud to be put on me and left to dry. In reality I was shut in a room and given a bucket with a load of mud in it which I then had to spread all over myself. Once I had done it I thought now what do I do? The answer - wash it off. Mind you this was no mean feat given I had manged to get mud everywhere, and I mean everyhere! Mind you after a few cocktails in town I managed to see the funny side of things.

A good time was had by all in the valley of longevity!