The morning we were leaving Kusadasi we called up the marina and one of their dinghies came out and we arranged to pump out black water but would have to wait till 9.00. At 9.00 we went to the pump out station only to be told it was broken! So we headed on out an hour and a half later than planned. Not that it made any difference really as it was a short trip to Teos. Once again we had a stupidly high quote from the marina so anchored happily for free again. Teos has a famous old town that used to be waterfront now about 2.5 ks inland. We walked there along a road in a poor rundown bit of town that turned into a sheep track through some 2000 year old olive trees. The site was really pretty - little wild flowers and green, green grass all around the piles of old rocks and columns. There were sheep with bells being herded by a shepherd through it all. Some reconstruction is going on and reminded us of a complicated jigsaw with all the matching pieces in their respective piles.

We stayed here for a few days waiting for a northerly to blow out and spent time ashore at a few bars and a very good chandlery. The anchor bridle sometimes gets twisted and un does it's D shackle so we ae trying a new system.

Next stop was Candali about 8 hours further north. This town is a local Turkish tourist only sort of place but we did find some locals in cafes happy to practice their English on us. They said the only non Turkish people they sometimes see are Australians going to or coming from Gallipoli! The town centre was busy with local shops and a market. The castle/fort is 13th centaury Genoese and has been restored over the years by various Sultans and most recently in the 50's. One side of the town is very traditional Turkish with two mosques (quite close together whose calls to prayer are not quite in sync!) and no beer and wine. The other side has more waterfront bars and restaurants with the works.

We took the opportunity of a southerly and headed further north to Ayvalik. Ashore was a surprisingly busy little town - very local as well with lots of windy streets full of small family type shops and restaurants, a few more were licenced than Candali. We found a Turk Telkom to recharge our phones. The northerlies set in and caught us on a lee shore so we all had a bit of a sleepless night going around the anchor chain but all was well, good holding. There is an island just opposite where we could have had a better night and it's supposed to be really nice so will try to stop there on our way back south. We are all a bit trapped onboard today so I'll get this posted. Off to Bozcaada Island next, the last stop before the Dardanelles.