Ready for the off at 4am with our bag packed for the porter (there was no way we were going to carry it!) we were on the bus heading for km 82, the start of the classic Inca trail, Camino. We met our group over breakfast around a table in a field, a lovely bunch; Marco and Simoneta (the mad Italians), Tony and Judy) the super fit retired Brits), Kelly (I've just spent 60 hrs on a bus, now I'm going to walk the Inca trail - USA), Brian and Brianna (the honeymooners from the States) and Luke (future lawyer extraordinaire from London). A spot of haggling over walking sticks, ponchos and coca leaves and us, our 2 guides and 16 porters were off, passports stamped and all.

An initial leisurely pace put Emma into a false sense of security. As we started to climb out of the valley floor, having to stop for a herd of pack horses and passing locals, the trail began to show signs of things to come. As we reached the top of the first sizeable hill we all tried to pretend not to be out of breath although the beads of sweat on our brows told a different story. The view from the top of the hill was to our first Inca site, Wilkarakay, one of many settlements along the Inca trail.

A few more hours undulating walk with Edgar, our guide, pointing out avocado trees (Emma was most excited), hallucinogenic plants, parasites blood (used for the colouring in lipsticks!)and we arrived to a round of applause from our porters at the lunch stop. Our lightening pace meant we had an extra hour to relax in the sun, as although the mess tent was up our 3 course lunch was still being prepared.

Whilst stuffing coca leaves in his mouth Edgar told us the afternoon walk would be Peruvian flat and some uphill (ie all uphill!). We all followed suit with the coca leaves before setting off. Within an hour we found ourselves walking alone as everyone settled into their own pace. We continued to climb up, following a trickling mountain stream being shaded from the hot sun by the bows of the beautiful ancient forest. The steps on the meandering path became more frequent and larger and we began to take our eyes off the picturesque scenery to pick out the easiest route up the steps.

"Are we nearly there yet?" - Jona keeps assuring Emma that camp should be just around the next corner. 2 hours of very steep steps, with Emmas thighs burning (Jona was now carrying both day bags!) we finally broke out of the forest and finally saw our camp for the night. Naturally most of the porters had been there for hours, and we were greeted with warm applause and even warmer tea. The campsite at Llullucapanpo (3,750m) was at the foot for the final ascent to the renowned Dead Womens pass, the rock outline of which we had caught glimpses earlier in the day. Looking back from the campsite through the valley, a real sense of achievement at how high and far we had climbed in just 8 hours.

Only 1 casualty on day 1, a porter had done his ankle in, unlike some other groups with tourists being taken back down. Another slap up 3 course meal before we all collapsed into bed, feeling particularly smug when we heard people from other groups arriving at camp some 4 hours behind us.

Served cups of tea in our tents at 6am, we contemplated the climb to Dead Womens pass over breakfast. Stocked up on coca leaves, breathtaking climb (both literally and for the scenery) took a couple of hours. At the top (4,200m) we gave our thanks to Pacha Mama and took in the panorama as the clouds came rolling in over the to. It was all very dramatic. Walking sticks in full flail we descended down to the next valley floor where, with aching knees, we rested over lunch at Pacaymayo.

Climbing upto the second pass (3,750m), superb views back towards Dead Womens pass, we all found it hard to believe that we had climbed over the mountain. The clouds came rolling in obscuring the views from Rankurakay ruins. As we descended and the rain started it was time to don our ponchos.

We stopped off briefly at Conchamarca ruins at which point the trail descended into mystical cloudforest with various orchids and vine draped trees everywhere. We camped that night at Choquicocha (3,680m) where snowcapped mountain peaks could occasionally be seen rising above the clouds. As the weather deteriorated through the night, so did Emma´s health (she swears it was food poisoning!).

A dismal morning with the rain still falling, fortunately we only had a short 5 hour walk through the inca tunnels and past inca communication platforms. As the day progressed the weather lifted but with Emma still feeling ill we skipped Intipata terraces and headed for our final camp at Winay Wayna. Emma still off food skipped lunch and slept for the rest of the afternoon while Jona ensconced himself on the beer terrace, under the pretext he was looking after Emma while the others went to visit more ruins (he did appear with toilet roll and water eventually!!)

A 4.30am start meant our group were second in line to get through the checkpoint for the final stretch to Machu Picchu. The starts out we were all hopeful for a clear day. Luke was determined to be the first to arrive at the Sun Gate, with Emma and Jona trying desperately to keep up. Finally we scrambled up the near vertical steps to the Sun Gate amongst the first few to arrive. Unluckily the clouds had made it before us, and although we caught a glimpse of Machu Picchu there was no sunrise for us to enjoy.

Edgar provided us with a guided tour of the site before parting company, leaving us free time to explore on our own. We scrambled back up towards the Sun Gate to get our classic photo to the view of Machu Picchu but the clouds refused to lift. With time to sit and reflect on the last 4 days we both agreed that maybe it was the weather or perhaps it was the bus loads of tourists visiting from Agua Calientas, but the journey was far more rewarding than the destination. To have walked the intricately layed and ostentatiously routed trail was a real privilage.

We then experienced the most bizarre train ride back to Cusco where we were treated to a fashion show by staff and traditional dancing in the aisles, very odd! To celebrate we enjoyed a few beers with Luke back in Cusco and had the most amazing Tapas meal on our final night there.