Well it turns out I wasn't on my own for long....! The next day I arrived back in Phomn Penh and was very happy to be back. I was staying with my friend Naomi for a few days in her very green flat with continuous power cuts and alcoholic neighbours. We spent a few most enjoyable days drinking too much, sleeping too little, and falling down muddy riverbeds in white dresses at boat parties! Oh and cat hunting. Naomi has decided she wants a kitten and was advised the best place to go was to Wat's (temples) where people leave their unwanted kittens in the monk's care. Clearly that day all the cats were praying or meditating are there were none to be found.

On the Saturday I hopped on the bus back up to Siem Reap where I am now, at Jasmine Lodge where I stayed when I was here in September (and always stay whenever I'm back). I am trying to work my way through the rooms you see, the slut that I am! It is lovely to be back - I love this place. I've been here just over a week now and have really enjoyed going to PACDOC, cycling around town, lazing about reading, seeing people I know from before for the odd drink..! I honestly havent been upto much - I went to see a concert at the local kids hospital and saw some Apsara dancing one night. This is traditional Khmer dancing and to be honest, has bored me when I've seen it before...but not this time! It was excellent - all energetic and exciting - and it was fun watching the Khmer teenages flirt with each other on the stage and try to make each other laugh! Obviously the main purpose for coming back to Siem Reap was to go back to PACDOC and spend some time there teaching them, and generally hanging out with them. Is it FANTASTIC to be back at PACDOC, and the kids are as beautiful as ever. I know you have all heard this a million times before, but it really is such an amazing place and the kids there are so special. Everyday I go back I am greeted with huge smiles and hugs, rings made out of banana leaf, necklaces with hearts made out of stone, and loads of these beautiful flowers the kids make into a gorgeous bouquets. I'm not saying this to show off how much they love me (although obviously they do!) but because it shows you what gorgeous children they are. It has been fun teaching again - I actually feel more useful this time having done the course so it was worthwhile I guess! The only thing I would ever ever change about PACDOC is the fact that it is, officially, the hottest place on earth. Never have I been so sweaty an the kids, bless them, try to ignore the fact that I am dripping all over their notebooks. Perhaps they have got used to it. One of the women who looks after the kids gave me a huge cuddle the other day and lots of kisses and I just felt so sorry for her on account of the sweat! I'll stop going on about it now but seriously - HOT! There are no other volunteers at PACDOC, nor is there an organisation working there, but the kids are going to school still and generally seem in good health and are happy.

Anyway, I'm thinking I will probably move on to Thailand on tuesday, trying not to get too attached. I am going to be really really sad to leave Cambodia, again, but I'm sure it wont be too long before I am back again. Until then... I leave you will some of my memories of this beautiful beautiful place:

Angkor Wat, green green paddy fields and bright red flowers, butterflies, monks, mountains, dragonflies, giggling, cockroaches, dogs, malaria, dengue, bamboo scaffolding, 'good price for you', kramers (cambodian chequered scarves), khmer rouge, children - begging, smiling, selling books, old smiling women with red teeth, landmines, amputees, tuk-tuk's, moto's, 'good luck for you!', Apsara dances, 'happy endings', humidity, rain, sun, trucks that play we wish you a merry christmas when they reverse, beer, ' eat rice!', pyjama's, rubbish, bicycles, mango shakes, 'Teacher!', expressive faces, big smiles, shy smiles, gappy-missing-teeth smiles......

The list is endless I guess! And please excuse my sentimentality on this occasion! ;-)

Lots and lots of love

Ella

xxxx