It was INSANE.
So I had some trouble in Beijing finding the bus and station etc so I took a taxi. I arrived in Erlain at about midnite so I was stuck with the hotel the taxi driver picked. It was OK but I was only there for 6hr. My research said there was trains every day and about 6 buses everyday. I couldnt find them and at the train station in Beijing they told me train only on Tues and Wed. (same as Trans Mongolian).
.I was up early to go to the train station to get one of the many jeeps that ferry people across the border everyday. There was no activity. I went to the Long distance bus station to get a bus to Zamyn-Uud. I booked the ticket but the bus doesnt leave till 1.30. I still had 6hr to kill. I took a short walk and got some breakfast then went back to the station to tap into their internet. About 11 I went back to the train station to check but still no activity.
I took the bus to the border where we had to wait forever for what appeared to be no reason. We eventually got dropped off at border station at 3pm. Checkout was easy. I walked up to the counter and the woman stamped my passport. Job done, easy as that.
Out the back again had to wait for the bus. It seemed to be taking ages and I wanted to get the 5.30 train to Ulaanbaatar. There were all these Russian jeeps, UAZ (say WAZ) taking people through no mans land. They load the thing chocker full of stuff then put 5 people in them. I wanted to take a photo but you cant take photo's in no mans land, anywhere. I got my bag from the bus and was running around to all the jeep drivers trying to get a lift. They were all sayin no till a woman driver came along. She was sitting soo close to the wheel and there was less than a foot in the passenger seat. Eventually she couldnt resist the old animal magnetism and she agreed to take me. I just managed to get my pack in the front seat ans I had to stand in the door way and hold the door shut. These are serious boongers and there are no rules. NONE of them would make it on the road at home.
On the Mongolian side I lined up again and the woman stamped my visa and wave me through. I walked on and just kept walking right out of the building. Before I knew it I was on the road to the train station in Zamyn-Uud. I had no idea where it was or how far but I was determined to get the train so I started to thumb. All the taxis going past were full. Eventually a woman driver fell to my charm and stopped. This time I was the ******** shoving to get in an already full taxi. She dropped me right at the train station.
At the station I changed $100US and they gave me 132,000 TOGROG. It is the hardest currency to work out. Then I had to go upstairs for a ticket. There were 2 "lines" in reality **** fights to get to a window. Everyone pushing and shoving. I started with 6 in front and 15 min later I was further back. Lucky I was in front of a closed window and another lady came to open it. I leant against the counter and sharpened the elbows and waited. I could feel the pushing and shoving behind me so I turned around a couple of times. That was funny knocking them over with my pack. I finally got my ticket for 9600 togrog or about $8 for a sleeper on the overnight train.
I walked around on the station waiting for the train to arrive when I realised it was already there. It was written on the side in Mongolian and I had to get out my book to translate it. I joined the people waiting to get on and soon they opened up to let us on. WELL the **** fight upstairs was nothing on the fight to get on the train. It is first in best dressed. The first family had soo much stuff it took them 10 min to get it all on. The ******* just used up most of the storage space in 3 compartments. These people are the rudest people in the world. The just expect everyone to double up around their ****. The Provodnitsa (carriage *****) took ofence to a couple of people and was pushing a guy out of the way and chucked his wifes luggage on the train track. My turn and she call over her supervisor. There is a problem with the dodgy ticket I was just sold? The Provodnitsa has got my number and Im scared. She then motions me onto the train but keeps my ticket. A little later she came to me and gave back my ticket. The problem was I was given seat 0 and there is no seat 0. She gave me a seat in a 6 person compartment with 10 other people. Looks like they sold HEAPS of seat 0's. These people have been working hard and sweating and there in no air con and we are packed in and it is VERY hot in the train. I recon well into the 40's. This is gonna be another LOOONG ride.
We eventually leave with the way too small windows open but soon have to close them cos of the dust coming in. We are going through the Gobi desert and it is dusty as hell. Provodnitsa comes around with hot coffee??? early in the night there were 4 people sitting in the 2 seats under a bunk along the side of the train. I motioned I was gonna set up the bunk and have a sleep. I think an old lady was trying to tell me it was hers but I did it anyway. I had a good few hours sleep till they decided to turn on the A/C and blow a cold draft down my back. I had my bag liner for just this kind of thing and soon was right back to sleep. I woke about 4am and got up to stretch and the old lady (who was double bunking with another old lady) asked if she could have the bunk. I gave it to her.
By morning we were through the Gobi Desert and into the steppe country and postcard scenery. There really are yurts out there with people living in them. These people are one of the last true nomads left in the world and that wont last for much longer. A young boy was selling breakfast that looked like "pound cake and chocolate eclairs" I passed and just had coffee.
Getting off was more push and shove, cos whoever gets off first wins.
I walked to the Khongor G/H and it is bitterly cold. I am glad I have beenie and gloves cos it is still single didget and wind chill is freezing. I think it might snow tonight. Lucky we are nearly into summer.