The room smells like there has been an explosion in a nearby sewage plant. Cockroaches scuttle across the floor and walls. An unspecified insect the size of a playing card sits by the window. We are awoken loudly at 6am. No, it's all right - we're not in jail. We are, in fact, in one of the beach resorts of Carita's top hotels, the Paniisan.

If this is as good as it gets in Carita, what on earth are we doing here, you may ask. The answer, unsurprisingly, is that we are here to visit yet another of Java's volcanoes, and, predictably and annoyingly, the best time to see it is early in the morning. Unlike the others we have visited so far, this one is not on the mainland but is to be found about 30 miles due west of the Javan mainland, in the Indian Ocean.

But this volcano is not just any volcano: it is the world's most famous volcano - Krakatoa. Volcanic history buffs will no doubt point out that Krakatoa was obliterated in the famous eruption, on 27 August 1883 (the wave effects of which were said even to have reached the English Channel). However, the seismic, tectonic gubbins that created Krakatoa in the first place were still there, under the sea bed, grumbling away. And in 1927, the Son of Krakatoa first appeared above the waves, a charming geological reminder of the destructive power that lurks beneath. Since then, the Son of Krakatoa has been active on and off, and has built itself up into a new volcanic island, several hundred feet high, with a small forest harbouring snakes and lizards, beautiful black sand beaches, and plenty of pumice stones that Boots would love to get their hands on. *

Our journey to view the volcanic island started on a boat, and over the next 90 minutes we could see the cone take shape in the distance, with the occasional splurt of fumes and ash belching out of the top - it is in a decidedly active mood at the moment. We eventually arrived just off the coast of the island, and the boat's skipper turned off the engine and indicated in sign language that we should wait, cameras at the ready, until there was another volcanic ejaculation. Half an hour passed with little more than a rather measly steam emission and we were beginning to think that this was as good as it got. Then, all of a sudden, a rush of steam and ash bellowed forth from the caldera, accompanied by a stunning shower of sizeable chunks of rock, against a backdrop of sphincter-loosening crashes and bangs. Breathtaking and awe-inspiring.

After getting our breath back, and with slight trepidation, we accepted the captain's invitation to climb up the volcano. Nosing the boat up to one of the gleaming black beaches, he invited us to jump out. As we strolled through the forest at the foot of the climb, he amiably told us of the snakes "some small, and some very big" that lived on the island. Which was pleasant. Then the greenery ended abruptly, and we began to ascend. Around us were head-sized chunks of volcanic debris that had obviously recently been spewn out with a fair amount of energy. Fingers crossed the volcano wasn't feeling that energetic today.

Half way up the ascent, our skipper indicated that this was about far enough, and suggested we turned back. As if on cue, another underwear-soilingly loud explosion barked out of the summit, a couple of hundred feet above us. More ash and steam poured forth, as did some rocks, which fell to earth close enough to persuade us that a timely return to the boat was advisable.

Exhilarated by what we had seen, we set off again in the boat, anchoring on the far side of a nearby island (that was in fact part of the previous Krakatoa's enormous caldera, most of which had been destroyed in 1883). Donning snorkel gear, we jumped into the sea, and found ourselves amongst some beautiful, healthy coral (the best I have seen, including Egypt, Australia, Thailand and the Maldives), and thousands of gorgeous tropical fish, including my favourites, clownfish and anemone fish. After soaking up the rays, and swimming with the fish for a couple of hours, we finally headed back to Carita, exhausted and thrilled. Our hotel room was waiting. Maybe we should go back instead?

*See our bathroom on our return.