What is big, sweaty, and brings a lot of pleasure? Jakarta, of course! The mighty city is the capital of the Indonesian archipelago, home to over 8 million Indonesians, and a place where traffic mayhem and humidity merge into one heady cocktail.

Originally named Batavia, it was formed by the Dutch as the hub of their East Indies colony. Its kota (i.e. city centre) has a port that still houses numerous elegant tall ships, homage to its trading past; and the ceiling fans hum quietly in the colonial buildings that have been converted into splendid cocktail bars.

The homesick Dutch built a network of canals criss-crossing the city, to remind them of Amsterdam. Unfortunately, the stagnant water and the climate made these a hotbed of diseased ming, and nowadays they are filled with foul smelling sewage.

Our stay in Jakarta was spent in a plush downtown hotel, where young, hip Indonesians swum in rooftop infinity pools, sipping cocktails, after the hours of dark. We fitted right in.

It is not the most beautiful city we have seen on our travels, but it does have atmosphere and character. Next stop....Borneo.

PS Jakata-related joke:

My sister went to Indonesia.

Jakarta?

No, she went by plane.