Jordan - wow! It is an assault on the senses and what a sensory overload I've had today...

We arrived last night under the cover of darkness, received our visas and were met by our football loving driver Mohammed. He told us football was his best friend and regaled us with stories of his favourite players, his life in the New Zealand as a Palestinian and his plans in Jordan. He even knew Dundee Football Club had more history than Dundee Utd. Clearly a man of taste.

We experienced the Jordanian attitude to driving very quickly. They are big fans of Mario Kart; they are not big fans of driving within lanes and they have nerves of steel. You have seen nothing until you have seen cars over take each other in traffic jams.

Our hotel was lovely and I have a bed that is over 6ft wide and a bathroom that could house a bed. We quickly grabbed some food, marvelled at the bravery of pedestrians (walking down the middle of the road - in some cases rollerblading into oncoming traffic!) and settled down for the night.

The morning brought us the most magical breakfast buffet you will ever see. There were eggs, pastries, olives, meats, humus, salads, mixed grills of chicken and lamb, yoghurts, fruits spring rolls, coffees, teas, every fruit juice you can think of and to top it off Rice Krispies. Stuffed, we prepared for the Dead Sea and waited for our host Kholoud to arrive.

Now we experienced Jordanian driving first hand. We were introduced to Ammar who would drive us for the day and set off along the highway. You have to be alert as a driver as cars come from everywhere at every speed. Then you have to watch for police checkpoints.

It struck us the contrasts in lifestyles of the more westernised Jordanians and the Bedouin people. We passed many camps as we descended to the lowest point on the planet. The tents were clearly purpose made but also very temporary as they move their herds of goats and camels (do you call it a herd of camels?) around the land.

We arrived to see a range of western hotels (Hilton, Holiday Inn, Marriott) along the coast line but we bypassed these and hit the beach. It was incredible to see the women in full burkas mix with the more liberal but covered Jordanians and some skimpy bikini clad Europeans. We even witnessed one lady in a Burkini take her first steps into the sea and try to float.

It is impossible not to float in the Dead Sea. I cannot do justice with words how it feels in the water. It must be the only thing on earth that is close to the feeling if weightlessness. I pushed my legs under water and immediately they pop to the surface. I turn onto my front and my legs pop out the water behind me.

I can only encourage you to do this yourself. There is nothing else I can really say about it. After witnessing this lady's one giant step into a world of weightlessness, we headed back to Amman. Her look of sheer panic turning to puzzled confidence will stay in the memory.

Next we rested. A quick lunch, then read (Paolo Coelho's The Zahir - unsure of it at the moment) and then snooze in preparation for our next sensual assault.

We've had the tastes of the breakfast, sizzling heat and weightlessness of The Dead Sea: now came the sounds and smells.

Amman is a loud city. The drivers love their horns, the locals love their chatter and as the sun sets you have the call of the Athaan (the call to prayer) and the live music of the shisha cafes.

We ate a traditional meal - lamb with soured yoghurt and rice - then settled into a rooftop cafe as the sun went down.

We had both has our first puffs of shisha at the Dead Sea. Sian and I had a few puffs and it was a strange sensation. Not like I imagined smoking would be. I didn't feel the smoke in my lungs (I was assured I was doing it right) and all I had was a fruity taste a lot like HubbaBubba chewing gum. It wasn't unpleasant but not something I'd necessarily do again.

The Jordanians love their social shisha and soon the cafe filled up with people drinking Turkish Coffee and smoking their hookah pipes. The air was sweet with the smoke from the pipes and the lanterns cast a hazy glow over the rooftop. Two musicians, one with an oud and the other with a drum, struck up playing songs of love, loss and the majesty of Jordan. Down below the cars beeped, people chatted and the sun sank softly behind the Jebel hills. Another experience that words can barely do justice to.

My eyes have been wide open in awe at every turn and this is only day one. We have been to two places and it feels like we have packed in enough experiences for a lifetime.

Tomorrow only holds the small matter of Petra...