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The previous entry only covers the two days from 7.30am - 12.30pm.
Sunday, after a discussion with a Ministry of Education official about the education system and our experiences, we returned to the hotel where in the gym I discovered I'd lost 3 Kilos in a week.
Later, we were again taken to downtown Amman by our generous host Kholoud and Amar. We went to the Temple of Herculese high in the Jebel hills that make up the city of Amman, where we were treated to a fantastic sunset dropping behind the Roman architecture. Also on the same spot was a 6th century Byzantine church and what looked like a Mosque but turned out to be a 7th century residence of local officials.
We were again treated to the Athaan as darkness descended and were able to then view the central Roman amphitheatre.
We were dropped back at our hotel in the early evening and decided to take in the second half of the Jordan vs Iraq world cup qualifier that was being played less than a mile away (a 1-1 draw: most of the city was happy).
We ended the day playing a delicious game of menu card roulette. If you can't pronounce or don't know what a dish is, you must order it. This worked out well for both of us.
Here closed our first day in school.
Our second day in school was a really special and showcased the Jordanian's welcoming and generous spirit. Two parents of students at the school insisted on us coming to their house for lunch. We arrived at 12.30 and what a treat...
We had a starter of a soup dish made from grain, which we were told it was impolite to finish but on the table were three wonderful dishes, side salads and yoghurt dip.
We had Mansaf (a slow cooked lamb dish served with a dried yoghurt sauce with rice, pine nuts and bread), Musakhan (Chicken with red onion sauce, served on bread with olive oil), Ara'yes (a stuffed meat bread which certainly got the Scottish thumbs up of Och Aye) and Taboulah salad.
At this point I'd easily regained my three kilos and some.
We ate and ate and ate and when we looked like slowing our plates were full again. Mr Nadar, a Ministry of Education supervisor was encouraging us to enjoy the food in the true Jordanian way using our hands and providing us with endless entertainment. He had the spirit and enthusiasm of a man half his age and showed the typical Jordanian generosity we had seen on countless occasions.
Within minutes of talking, he had phoned his wife and arranged to take us to see his family later on that evening.
When the food finally let up, we retired to the living room area which was covered in beautifully crafted pieces of furniture. We were then plied with fruit juices and Arabic coffee whilst we awaited the piece-de-resistance... Dessert!
This was Knafeh - a kind of cheese cake drizzled with syrup and nuts. We were cut luxuriant pieces and left to find room in our already swollen stomachs for the last task. Everything that was tasted was absolutely delicious and I felt that my legs couldn't carry the rest of my body.
We left some small gifts for the children of the family (A copy of some Burns poetry... no idea what they'll make of this! A young Shakespeare text and some small bracelets) and departed with fresh apricots from their own fruit trees.
Again we were left severely in debt to the generosity of these people.
As if the day wasn't wonderful enough it was only 2pm when we left the company of our hosts. Absolutely stuffed, we went to sleep off some of the meal but were two wired on Turkish and Arabic coffee to sleep.
5 o'clock and we were ready for our next adventure. An Amman taxi drive! We were heading to the 8th Circle - Amman is structured around 8 roundabouts so we were heading out to the outskirts. The drive passed with the normal Jordanian vigour and we were met by our host Mr Nadar Audi (like the car).
He took us to his apartment, which was full of his family. First of all we met his two young granddaughters. Then his eldest son. Then his first son in-law, his second son in-law, his second son, his youngest son, his eldest daughter and his wife. We were soon told about his second daughter and his third son who lived in Cyprus.
We spent an hour or so here learning of his life's philosophies, hearing of his children's adventures abroad (and his son's cockney accent he had developed while living in Cyrprus of all places...) and looking through his albums of his time in Liverpool as an 18 year old in the 70's.
All he wanted in return was for us to listen, admire and talk to him of our lives. This was a true exchange of cultures with each party equally interested in the lives of each other. We ate (again - thankfully some delicious melon), drank mint tea and then were taken out to experience the parts of Amman they thought were impressive.
His son drove us in a Toyota Prius (I found this fascinating, sad I know) and took us to the top of another of the Jebel hills to witness the Amman skyline from a different angle.
The sun began to drop, Nadar tried to blag us into a Private School graduation ceremony for the experience and we were taken to the King Hussein Bin Talal Mosque.
This Mosque could hold 9500 worshippers and was built by the current king King Abdullah II in memory of his father. The building is under-lit by soft golden lights, which bounce of the white marble vaulted ceilings and the courtyards. We arrived just as the sun was setting and Sian was asked to cover her head -as she had respectfully done most of the week. We were able to take some photographs before the guards noticed that there was a slight split in Sian's dress, which revealed her calf. Getting into her second piece of mischief of the week, she was escorted from the grounds by armed police!
As the sun finally set the Athaan rang out and this was spectacular up close. The mournful call bounced from pillars to ceilings through recesses and courtyards to create a truly moving and haunting sound. I tried desperately to capture this on video but the microphone on the camera couldn't do this magical moment justice.
Here we parted from our new friends and made the taxi journey back to the 2nd Circle.
We finished our day with Jordanian Mezze. If you think humous in the UK is good, think again. We had two types of humous which explode with flavour fallafel and mixed sald.
As I've said, Jordan is an attack on the senses and here we had magnificent tastes and a feeling of deep contentment. It had only been a few days and we felt almost natives.
Thinking back on the day, I wasn't sure if Jordanian's coming to the UK would get the same experience. I'd like to think they would and I certainly need to repay many favours to any visitors to the land.
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