As a tourist would you be comforted or alarmed by a huge police presence on the streets of a foreign city? It isn't possible to walk down any street in Cuzco without encountering one of the numerous police patrols, with sometimes as many as 4 armed officers in one patrol. I can't help wondering if they need this police presence because crime is so likely or because security ensures no crime breaks out?.... Add in the numerous notices reminding tourists to watch their belongings, not to walk the streets at night and never take unlicensed taxis.. and it's difficult to relax! The Police smile and greet you with a 'hola', so obvious is their tourist agenda. The city of Cuzco is abundant with tourists and is clearly doing everything it can to ensure they keep coming back!

Nestled at the end of a valley with houses dotted all around the hillside, the former Inca capital of Cuzco lies 3,360 metres above sea level. This bustling hillside backdrop at the end of the valley creates a large amphitheatre around the city centre. It's stage, the central Plaza de Armas square with narrow streets leading to it from any point on the compass. The flatter open valley to the south provides the way in and out and the airport.

The old adobe brickwork, light coloured plaster houses with orange tiled rooftops line the narrow streets. Interspersed and poking out above the rooftops are the distinctive church towers. Similar to our hostel, many buildings have a rectangular tiled roof around a Cusco style paved courtyard. The narrow cobbled streets are picturesque but due to the steep slopes and altitude not always enjoyable to walk along!

The Inca civilisation was famous for it's architecture with a large amount of the city built on existing Inca foundations. Some of the classic mortarless brickwork is still evident on many of the city streets. Huge boulders of all shapes and sizes fitted together perfectly to create an immovable wall. Particularly fascinating examples of these boulder sized jigsaws are present both in the centre and the nearby ruins of Saqsayhuaman. A wall in the narrow cobbled street off the Plaza de Armas, Hatun Rumiyoc, is rarely free from tourist groups admiring the stone of 12 angles. This immense boulder fits perfectly within the wall collage and has become a symbol of the city. It even appears on a bottle of the local Cusquena Lager!

On the northern hillside above the city are the old Inca remains of Saqsayhuaman (pronounced Sexy Woman!..seriously). Originally thought to be a fortress it is now believed it was a dwelling of the sun. In addition to offering panoramic views of the old city and the Cuzco valley, the green hillside ruins provide more bewildering examples of Inca brickwork. A 30 minute walk up the steep streets and slippery when wet cobbles, made slower by the altitude, is hard enough to enjoy the ruins, but how they managed to get the bus sized boulders (some weighing over 120 tonnes) up there is still an unexplained mystery!

The architecture isn't the only unique wonder of Cuzco, the ample bars and cafes, offer much intriguing temptation. Peruvian wine is best left alone but Sally found a rather different substitute in the form of Coca Tea. Essentially made from Cocaine leaf, the tea, chocolate or raw leafs are a local delicacy thought to help with the altitude. Even in the raw leaf form, this class A drug is illegal outside of Peru. The Coca leaf is indeed a subject of much controversy in the north of Peru where it borders Colombia. As part of a clampdown the US government torched many fields and have since subsidised the local farmers to grow Coffee instead. However at a sixth of the value per kilo, the Peruvians are understandably disgruntled when the Coca leaf is actually used quite legally within their own country.

Local cuisine is nothing short of intriguing with the rather unusual food of Guinea Pig a local delicacy and other meats such as Alpaca readily available in any cafe. Having owned guinea pigs as a child I couldn't bring myself to order this off the menu but apparently it is served with head and legs intact! This is so that the diner is sure they are eating guinea pig and not cat! More famous for it's soft and expensive wool, Alpaca is available and like beef is served any way you can imagine. The sautéd variety was surprisingly tender and did taste a lot like beef but it still didn't stop me feeling a little guilty about tucking in to an unusual animal we had been photographing wandering around the Altiplano a few days earlier.

Eating Alpaca was slightly uncomfortable but a visit to the central indoor market and in particular the meat section was stomach churning. Not for the faint hearted, the display of meat left out on the counters would keep a UK health inspector in paperwork for months. An old lady was busy hacking at something behind the counter with what appeared to be an axe that she repeatedly lifted above her head before each swift downward chop! However, by far the most head turning was a bowl full of what resembled half Alpaca heads with jaw and teeth still intact. An interesting place to visit but only on an empty stomach!

The central Plaza de Armas, is never short of activity and a good place to wile away an afternoon at one of the cafes or bar balconies that encircle and overlook the busy square. With the Cathedral at one end and a central park and fountain it is fun to watch tourists try and avoid touting advances. Hidden above on a balcony also allows for an opportunity to photograph unsuspecting locals in traditional dress. Admittedly, it is difficult to find a genuine local in the colourful costumes of their ancestors complete with flat tray like hat, who isn't trying to pose for tourist photographs. If you have been to Cuzco you will have no doubt seen the man donned in the full Inca King outfit including headdress and staff, and women carrying a baby llama who I'm sure have been at it for years.

Unlike Chile and Argentina, who it appears at times couldn't care less, tourism is everything here. It is impossible to walk down the charming narrow streets without being asked to buy a wooly hat, watercolour picture or pan pipes. Every place is either a cafe, hostel, hotel, souvenir & craft shop or tour agency. It is evident the city thrives and survives on tourism but briming with character and Machu Picchu on the doorstep it isn't hard to see why.

Perhaps partly due to the tourist orientated ethos similar to the Thamel area of Kathmandu or Siem Reap, Cuzco has an immediate charm. With it's network of character filled streets, history at every corner and abundance of sights it was a fantastic place to finally stop moving for a few days.

So, with much relief we did stop moving and even enjoyed a rather uncharacteristic but totally necessary couple of days of doing very little. We even made time for a steady afternoon Cusquena lager or in Sally's case the aforementioned Cocaine tea, which has become a regular 2 cups a day- should I be concerned?

Hopefully this forced and frankly strange opportunity to recharge our batteries will help set us up nicely for the next big challenge that lies ahead...

Something that has been on my to do list for quite sometime and one of the most famous treks in the world......The 4 day, 3 night (camping) Inka Trail that takes us through the Andes, finishing at yet another wonder of the world, Machu Picchu. We have timed it nicely so we will arrive at this mighty hillside temple on Sally's birthday so....join us next time to see:

-If it rains as much as the weather forecast predicts.
-if the other people in our group don't slow us down too much.
-if our sleeping bags actually work to temperatures as low as 3 degrees as guaranteed on the label.
-if I can successfully charge my phone somewhere in the mountains so that I can at least share a few iPhone pics.
- If we have a phone signal on Saturday so that I can get the all important Euro qualifier and World cup cricket quarter final updates from my brother (Thanks in advance Steve!).

And

- If I can successfully carry a massive Birthday cake and present to Machu Picchu without Sally noticing! (P.s- don't tell her!!)