Although native to Chile, Scorpions weren't exactly the kind of wildlife we were expecting to see high up in the Andes, let alone in our room. Cold and tired after a ropey nights sleep due to on/off altitude headaches, upon seeing our new roommate we were suddenly very much awake. In attempting to usher it out of the door fairly swiftly, it became apparent that it had it's front claw/pincer trapped under the skirting board. The insects own attempts to prize itself free with it's stinging tail came to no avail so we tried to help out with a folded up map. Admittedly I may have been a little too heavy handed and although successful in getting it free and out of the front door, sadly it's claw had remained under the skirting board. It later transpired that they are quite common here, particularly in March but are nothing to be concerned by as they are in fact quite 'armless''!!

Doubling up as a very enthusiastic and superb tour guide, the lodge landlord Flavio took us out on a tour of the park. Unfortunately, our normal picture postcard weather had deserted us and there was a lot of cloud sitting on the volcanic peaks. We even managed to pass through a hail storm which soon turned a mountain side white. Nonetheless we were still able to see all of the volcanos and lakes under what was predominately a sunny sky.

We climbed the remaining 10 miles and 700 metres from Putre quickly to reach the 'Altiplano'. Altiplano is the Spanish word for High Plain and after the Tibetan Plateau, it is the 2nd highest in the world stretching across 4 countries, Chile, Bolivia, Argentina and Peru. The dry colourless sandy scrub desert isn't too dissimilar to the Tibetan plateau, but where the Altiplano does differ is it's assortment of Volcanos and varied wildlife.

The highest peak of Volcano Sajama at 6542m actually sits in Bolivia but was just about visible across Lake Chungara before the cloud moved in. The perfectly symmetrical slopes and conical snow peaked volcano of Mt Parinacota at 6,330m is the most dominant feature in the Lauca National Park. As with many other of the Volcanos it also overlooks the dark blue waters of Lake Chungara and is a photographers dream. The only actual Active Volcano in the park is that of Mt Guallatiri at 6,071m from which you can see flumes of puffy white smoke emanating from within. In fact evidence of Volcanic activity is all around from the rocky lava fields and hot springs to the occasional eggy whiff of Sulphur alongside lake Chungara. The appeal and glamour of Volcanos not only manifests itself in their shape but also that they seemingly stick up out of no where, often alone and devoid of a mountain range.

As with the Torres del Paine National Park in southern Chile, wildlife isn't hard to find. It is impossible not to see some relations of the common Guanaco from Southern Chile. Herds of Vicuña, Llama or the valuable wool growing Alpacas wander freely on the plain. A kind of cross between a rabbit and chinchilla with soft fur and bushy tails, the cute Vizcacha is also easy to spot sun bathing or bouncing around the rocks and bushes high up on the plateau. Pink flamingos and various water birds plod around the lakes and waterways. All of this rather sedentary activity taking place under the watchful eye of the soaring Condor or closely related vulture.

Whilst minding our own business we inadvertently managed to walk into the middle of another dress rehearsal for 'animal planet'. An Andean Fox appeared on the hillside between two herds of Vicunas and predatorily moved towards a group containing 2 or 3 young. Sensing the danger the other herd shrieked a warning to their fellow creatures. The grazing and relaxed wandering came to a sudden and abrupt holt and all was not calm on the plain, as the endangered group quickly moved away, forcing their young up the hillside.

What came next was simply sensational and a fascinating insight into animal survival. Rather than run away as expected, the male choose to use attack as the best form of defence. Without any hesitation, he bounded confidently towards the fox and tucking in his long neck went straight for it. The fox scarpered directly towards us with the Vicuña running alongside, blocking any route to his fellow Vicunas. Literally 5 metres away from where we were stood gawping, videoing etc, the panic stricken fox flee'ed up the rocks behind us. We tried to follow but clearly the fox was better acclimatised, and the steep slope at 4,600m above sea level left us gasping for air. As it turned out this wasn't such a bad plan as the fox soon doubled back past us, but this time running off into the distance. A few minutes later the herd of Vicunas were back grazing having fended off this dangerous predator...until the next time at least, such is their day to day routine.

It proved to be another memorable day and a spectacular welcome to the Altiplano. We have also gained more respect for the effects of altitude and it was noticeable that 1 day at 3,500m after being at sea level was not enough. The pressure is difficult to explain but it is a constant discomfort like your head is being squeezed in a vice. Simply breathing requires thought but the thinner air leaves you often feeling quite faint or a little off balance. As much as we had enjoyed the day, dropping back down to the warm green valley at 3,500m was quite literally like unscrewing the vice around our forehead whilst being taken into a room full of fresh countryside air. It is comforting to know we won't have to venture over the head hurting 4,000m again for the remainder of our Andean adventure in the next few weeks!

As with the other Chilean must see national park of Torres del Paine the scenery is nothing short of magnificent. There is an image worthy of any PC screensaver in any direction you care to look. When you add the fascinating wildlife, words simply do not do justice to national parks of this calibre, but maybe the collection of photos will help.....