The 4 day trek to the Inca City of Machu Picchu (Part 1)

From the Sun Gate on a ridge above, you set your eyes on the Inca city of Machu Picchu for the first time. 3 hard days trekking in the Andes mountains, compounded by a 40 minute uphill slog at 5.30am are instantly rewarded. For a very special moment, there is a bewildered silence as you stare in awe at this most stunning piece of human engineering, nestled within an idyllic mountain range!

There are various ways to reach the Machu Picchu but none more spectacular than the 4 day trek along the Inca trail. 2400m high in the steep mountains of the Andes, reaching Machu Picchu by foot is a testament to it's magnitude and upon arrival at these most dramatic ancient ruins you know for sure you have earned it. Almost 10 years after my first thoughts of taking the Inca Trail here we were looking down on Machu Picchu and it was even more spectacular than I had ever imagined.

Below is a day by day personal account of the Inca Trail through the eyes of trekking novices.

Day 1:

Cusco-Piscacuchio-Wayllabamba

12 km from 2,720m to 3,000m altitude

Start- 5.30am- Arrive at Camp 5.30pm

The day had arrived for us to take on the highly anticipated epic trek to Machu Picchu. We didn't get the best nights sleep, probably due in part to excitement mixed in with a little apprehension. Our rented 45 litre backpacks were filled to the brim with a sleeping bag, towel, snacks, drinks and what we hoped would be enough spare and warm clothes. One thing we knew for certain was that it would rain most days and it would be cold at night, both of which were later proved correct!

The trek starts at a place named 'kilometre 82' which is 82km from Cusco and 28km from Machu Picchu in a direct line, but the loop we would be walking would take us approximately 45 km (28miles) through the mountains to our goal of Machu Picchu! After a 30 min stop in Ollantayambo for last minute provisions we grabbed our bags and stepped off the bus at kilometre 82 at 11am.

We had already met our bubbly dark curly haired guide Roberto the previous day when he visited our hostel to run through a pre trek briefing. He appeared to be a fun chap from the start and it boded well that he laughed at some of my jokes! The rest of the group consisted of another 10 excited tourists, 12 smiling porters and a trainee guide, Anna.

The fellow trekkers we would spend the next 4 days with were
Canadians Lindsay, Hannah and Tommy, Americans Chris and brothers Jonathan and Dan, Argentinian couple Karina and Fernando, a Kiwi Edward and a Belgian Steven (or Stefano as he later became known as, by me anyway).

The activity began in earnest the moment we stepped off the bus as the porters frantically stuffed sacks full of the essentials we would need for the trip. Heavily laden and donned in a green football shirt uniform with that they set off. We soon followed, as far as the passport checkpoint anyway and then we were ready to go!

The first day is essentially a gentle warm up with a flat 90 mins or so before a chance to test the legs with a short ramp up to the lunch spot. Running parallel with the train tracks and river, the trail follows the valley passing by a scattering of farms, houses and agricultural fields beneath the steep green slopes of the mountains. Breaks in the cloud revealed distance snow peaked mountains.

The porters and cook hadn't had long enough to get very far ahead so a short wait for lunch ensued. Expecting a quick sandwich we were all rather surprised to be led in to a dining tent complete with stools, tables, tablecloths and an ample selection of cutlery. A first course of bananas with raspberry sauce was followed by corn soup, rice and trout, finished off with boiling water and a plentiful supply of coca leaves! Not exactly what we expected and quite frankly far more than we required but we tucked in all the same. This was a pattern that would follow for the next 3 days with lunch always consisting of 3 courses, chicken, fish or ham. Gasps and general fascination at the amount of utensils we were using for lunch and lunch itself certainly broke the conversation ice at this early stage. The metal bowls, plates, trays, serving dishes and even individual hand washing bowls had all been carried up the mountain...impressive!

The afternoon provided a sterner test with a couple of sharp rises, one of which gave us our first sight of some very impressive Inca ruins. Tucked away at the bottom of the steep mountains, the ruins of Llactapata some distance below brought about the first of many 'Wow' moments that would fill the next 4 days. Made even more dramatic by the whispy clouds and shadows, the steep mountain landscape and valley below provided a sharp introduction to what would lay ahead and we were all buzzing with excitement. The name llactapata means 'town located in height' and was previously a farming village and an entrance control for Machu Picchu. It was our first glimpse of the famous Inca terracing used for farming crops on the mountain slopes. Nearby a perfectly flat and round piece of innocent looking green land was hiding a dark history. Now resembling an elevated circular golf green with sharp drop offs on all sides, it was hard to imagine it's former use as a Sacrificial alter. Rather than think about the Llama or virgin suicides that took place centuries ago, it prompted discussions on which golf club would be required to find the heart of this most picturesque of par 3's.

Leaving the hillside viewing point the trail moved inland away from the train tracks and links to civilisation. Instead we now followed a narrow canyon and raging stream through a rolling valley until a couple of mud barns signified that camp 1 had been reached. The porters had quite literally run ahead of us after lunch and camp was set up ready for us to dump our bags and enjoy a rest before dinner. Much to our surprise and obvious excitement, the barn owner emerged with a table full of drinks including rather inexpensive (8 soles or £1.80) large bottles of Cusquena. Not normally one to indulge in such frivolities I thought it an appropriate time to share a jar with my fellow trekkers whilst joining in on collective marvelling at the valley before us. The initial awkwardness soon disappeared as we yarned over the days events and got to know our fellow trekkers. A large tray of popcorn (yes popcorn) materialised from the impromptu kitchen before we sat down to tuck in to our 2nd 3 course feast of the day. The mood was notably now very relaxed and Roberto continued his jovial hosting skills and impressively evil chuckles prompting much fun and laughter. Earlier in the day he had given us a run down on the origins of Coca leaves, even providing detail on how to make Cocaine. The evening however was more focussed on preparing us for what lay ahead tomorrow. Camped at 3000 metres most of the day would involve an ascent of 1200 metres to Dead Woman's pass. Recounting a story of an elderly lady who struggled but completed it in 12 hrs he urged us to take it at our own pace.

After dinner our American friends introduced us to a fantastic new dice game called 'Perudo' and in our excitement, the fact that the Porters were lined up outside waiting for their bedroom tent escaped us until a subtle movement inside prompted us to call it a night....it was 9.30pm. We weren't overly excited about the prospect of a 5.30am wake up call as we took ourselves off to our tents and we certainly weren't expecting what lay ahead on Day 2!!

Day 2

Wayllabamba-Pacaymayu

10.5 km from 3,000m to 3,580m (highest pass of Dead Womans pass at 4,200m)

Wake up 5.30 am- Arrival at camp 3pm

The shout of 'Good Morning' and offers of Coca Tea soon prized everyone from their tents as the sun rose behind the mountains. Heavy rain during a cold night and the floor for a bed was quite an adjustment for us all and no one appeared to have slept properly on the first night but appreciating where we were tiredness was soon forgotten as we tucked in to our breakfast of pancakes and bread. A quick introduction to our disheveled, flip flop or trainer wearing porters followed breakfast. Inevitably the largest cheer was saved for the large gas and cooker carrier when he stepped forward to introduce himself. It also emerged that Edward (Eduardo) would today be celebrating his 29th Birthday prompting an early morning huddle, dance circle and sing song!

We left camp at 7am and immediately took to the ascent of Dead Woman's pass. Gradual at first it quickly ramped up to the first checkpoint. Peering through the whispy clouds we could see the valley before us and it was now immediately obvious this was going to be one long climb. The procession quickly splintered as everyone found their mountain legs and settled in to their own pace. As we climbed amongst the clouds they not only provided a mystical atmosphere but also helped to keep us cool as the boulder like steps gradually steepened. Halfway up the hill, some 2 hrs after leaving camp we were in the middle of both a forest and rain filled clouds. This area of dense green vegetation is named the 'Cloud Forest' and who were we to argue, as we quickly grabbed for our ponchos to ensure our backpacks remained dry. The trickling of the crystal clear stream alongside the path and rain falling heavily on the canopy above provided a characteristic ambient jungle atmosphere.

There were a couple of rest areas and drink stops on route but for fear of getting cold we didn't stop long and trudged on up the hillside. Although refreshing to see the porters did stop for occasional breaks, you could only admire the speed at which they flew past doubled up under the weight on their backs!

The final rest camp at Llullucha Pampa at 3800m was greeted with glee as it meant there was only just over an hour to the top. We could see the procession of walkers trudging ahead up the valley and we were looking forward to finishing this monster climb. Llullucha Pampa was also the last chance to buy drinks until the end of day 3. With beers also available a little bag readjustment was required to ensure I could help Edward celebrate his birthday that evening. Waiting a while gave us a chance to regroup but also required hats, gloves and jackets to stay warm as the clouds remained fixed around us.

With an extra litre of beer and 2.5 liters of water on board we took to the final push for the summit. Legs were noticeably heavier as we trudged on up the hill into the thinner moist air. Stefano's walk appeared to turn to a happy jog as he disappeared off into the distance closely followed by Jonathan and Dan. As much as I would have liked to increase my pace I soon found myself weighed down by an additional backpack as the altitude had replaced Sally's tan with a certain paleness. It was a relief to know that if our return to the UK bears no fruit in the job market, a career as a porter is not beyond the realms of possibility!

The final few steps seemed to get steeper and steeper until at around 12pm, 4.5 hrs after leaving camp we had reached the top of Dead Woman's pass- so named due to the discovery of a dead woman when the pass was first climbed. The efforts required for the final push and associated encouragement on the mountain had helped bring us closer together as a group and although we now looked down on the valley as a group from this moment on we never looked back!

At 4200m and well above the tree line, the surrounding grass moorland landscape poked out above the thick cloud that sat below us in the valley. Occasional breaks in the misty clouds allowed glimpses of blue sky, showing the conquered mountain path and the descent that lay in wait.

After a wait for other members of our group and the obligatory photographs, all that remained for the days exertions was a leg pounded descent to the camp at Pacamayu some 1.5-2 hrs below. The cloud soon gave way to a warming sun and layers were quickly removed and sun lotion applied as we dropped into the other side of the valley. A day devoid of wildlife in the cloud forest now showed signs of life with the boisterous sounds of bullfrogs and the happy chirpings of birds. Most noticeably the metallic green colours of the hummingbird moving from flower to flower close by the path.

Now clear of other trekkers, the path made for a relaxed stroll with panoramic valley views as we each step took us nearer and nearer to our late lunch, rolling in on time at 3pm.

The camp ground at Pacamayu was brimming full of tents and weary walkers. Unfortunately the rather grim squatter toilets 2 minutes away were rather less enjoyable. With lunch at 3.30pm and dinner to follow at 7pm our only activity was to eat and rest for a few hours whilst celebrating our achievements for the day. At 3500m we were close to the clear sky that gave us a bright twinkling display before we all turned in for another cold night in the tent! It had certainly been a tougher day than any of had expected but after our efforts that day we all knew despite the cold, we wouldn't have too many problems sleeping that night!