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Green Forests, Blue Lakes And Maybe A Volcano Or Two In The Lake District Of Argentina & Chile, Chile
With images of the Patagonian wilderness still vividly in our memory, a break from full on scenery wouldn't hurt would it...yeah right! A 2 hr plane journey north to the town of Bariloche in Argentina, led us nicely to yet more glorious views in the Lake District.
The lake district covers a large area of land that straddles the border of Argentina and Chile. Separated by the smaller mountains of the lower Andes spine, the landscapes on both sides are surprisingly different.
Bariloche and it's surrounding area is brimming with green forests, mountains and majestic blue lakes. Upon driving through the area it's not at all surprising to find that German settlers have made this home. With chalets poking out through the dense evergreen trees the place has a distinctive Bavarian or Swiss feel to it. It wouldn't be complete without the obligatory collection of German breweries and bars at regular intervals along the road near Bariloche.
The views are dramatic in summer and undoubtedly picture postcard stuff, under a blanket of snow in winter. The mountains play home to ski fields in winter with the mountain of 'Cerro Catedral', only 15 miles west of Bariloche, the biggest ski resort in Latin America. An exclusive area of Argentina, it boasts the famous Llao Llao hotel & golf club perched on a hill in the peninsula with panoramic lakeside views.
From the Alpine feeling Argentinean border, set amongst the mountain forest, after 14 miles of no mans land and quick glimpses of distant Volcanos the road slowly descends into Chile where open fields replace trees. Tractors work tirelessly on the long grass set amongst rolling hillsides and hedgerow separated pastures. If you had been teleported here under the same cloudy sky, you could honestly think you were back in blighty. Ordinary yes and totally unexpected in a country such as Chile, but a warming reminder of the green green grass of home. This is true of large sections of the Chilean lake district scenery. Ok there are also great conical volcanos sticking up all over the place but if you can ignore those, which is easy on a cloudy day, the landscape is amazingly English.
Venturing further north the mountains grow in size and the flat plain lake areas become more dramatic. The lakes in Chile are again set amongst forests and mountains with charming towns nestled on the riverbanks. One such town is Pucon which has hills on 2 sides, a lake on one and a stereotypical volcano on the other. The immaculately clean streets and engaging character of the wooden houses, create a relaxing place to spend a few days. Unfortunately, on this occasion, weather was not so friendly too us and although the wide base of Mt Villarrica was visible, cloud shrouded the peak on both days of our stay.
As beautiful as it is, the town lives under the constant threat of one of natures most spectacular but also destructive forces. One of only 5 active volcanos in Chile, Mt Villarrica last erupted in 1971 and although it brings vital tourism, is an ever present danger to the community. Whilst sitting in an internet cafe we heard the screeching noise of an air raid type siren, from the early warning centre next door. The lack of movement and frantic panic suggested it was a just a test! The volcanic activity centre also displays a set of traffic lights, which the locals will hope they never see in real use. For once green wouldn't mean 'Go' but instead the first warning that the Volcano is becoming more active. Amber signifies that it is erupting and if it isnt immediately obvious, red denotes that lava is flowing freely towards the town. With year round ice and snow present on the Volcano, the risk of landslides and flooding due to any increase in core temperature is also worryingly apparent.
It was sadly inevitable that our glorious run of weather would desert us sooner or later, but fortunately we did get to see the delights of the Argentinian lakes before the cloud descended over Chile. The green forests, blue lakes, charming towns and clear fresh mountain air were certainly worth the visit to the central South...if only we could have at least had a glimpse of the peak of that damn Volcano...if only!
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